Pitch 1a) Sky Streak start: From the two bolt anchor 25' off the Wonder Wall tree ledge, step left and climb a short, steep wall past two bolts, move up on easier ground to a ledge and a bolt. Traverse right to the first belay on The Last Unicorn. 5.10b.
Pitch 1b) Note: Rockfall may have altered the start of this pitch. The Sky Streak start is more commonly used. The original start: traverse down and right passing the latter two bolt anchor for almost a pitch and start a large, dying, spruce tree. Move left of the tree climbing on cool, angular holds past some pins to small, parallel corners and make a difficult move past a bolt (crux) and belay on a decent ledge at a two bolt anchor. 80' 5.10b.
Pitch 2) Make 5.9 moves up and left past two bolts to the base of a vertical, flake system, crank up the .10b crux past three bolts to an obvious overlap and undercling to a beautifully exposed belay. 100' 5.10b.
Pitch 3) Climb a striking and difficult, open corner past four bolts to a pin and make awesome layback moves to the top. 85' 5.10b.
Rappel from a bolt station 30' to your left to another two-bolt anchor on Science Friction Wall, two sixty-meter raps will get your down.
Location
From the base of the approach for Inferno, climb up the 4th class ledge system traversing right, pass the two bolt anchor for Lost Souls and make your way across the wonder wall tree ledge. At its far, right-hand side, traverse right 25 feet for the Sky Streak start, Continue traversing right @ 5.4 to the spruce tree and the original start.
Protection
Standard rack (.3-#3+set of nuts) will get it done, this route has lots of fixed gear but you will want gear in between it.
though this is a great climb i must admit it wasnt as good as all the hype (i gave it 3 stars aka GREAT!) but everyone said it was the best route around at the grade... even in one of the guide books it said "One of the best routes on the east coast"... it would be hard to live up to that... i loved the climb but found a few things that kept it out of the CLASSIC catagory, loose rock, crappy approach/decent, hanging belays and the fact that it doesnt start at the bottom or end at the top... just my thoughts...
do the route but you will enjoy it more if you ingnore the hype :)
RSS Feed
Slideshow
