My dad (Ernie Hansche) on sliding board (5.7) with...
Description
A truly classic slab climb, loved, respected and feared...A great place to hone your slab climbing skills...Sees many ascents and some epics on a nice weekend so try to avoid the crowds and make sure you are ready for the adventure....
Start from the launch pad.
Pitch one (5.2): Moves up toward the arch of standard route breaking left to a two ringbolt anchor, even with the bottom of the arch....
Pitch two (5.7): Move right and up past two bolts along a steep ramp... Belay on small gear in a crack with an old pin...or traverse left to a two bolt anchor....
Pitch three (5.5): The mental crux for most... Straight up and a little right climbing past 1 bolt on this 100ft pitch...The climbing is moderate but feels harder due to the smooth rock and long runout....
Pitch 4 (5.5): move right to a pretty left facing corner with a nice crack, up this to gain a dike and shortly after, a comfortable stance at a slanting corner...Belay from here with gear....
Pitch 5 (5.6): Move up and right across smooth slab over an overlap to a slippery dike. Up the dike to a two bolt anchor below the dike that splits the steep headwall....
Pitch 6 (5.5): Steep but moderate climbing gets you up the 20ft headwall and on to the truly moderate climbing.. Up the easy dike to a good stance...belay from gear....
Pitch 7 (5.3): Up dikes and left over a slab to a tree belay....
Pitches 8 and 9 (5.1 ish): I normally simulclimb them clipping the one bolt between the tree and the summit...Follow the dike or choose your own adventure...Belay from trees above, or stop to belay from 1 bolt at the halfway mark....
Location
Follow directions to the launch pad from Whitehorse directions.... From the top turn right (north) and follow a trail down... Many parties rap down with 2 ropes after doing the harder pitches to avoid the hike....
Protection
Standard rack, tricams helpful in solution pockets.... Some pitches are run out giving it the R rating.... The physical crux is well protected but there is some spooky climbing on most pitches for those not comfortable running it out on 5.5 and under....
By Jay Knower Administrator Feb 20, 2007 rating: 5.7 R
Most people rap from the end of pitch 5 since this is the last place where a fixed rap station can be found. However, this does not allow you to climb the steep headwall, one of the best stretches of climbing on the route. The walk-off isn't really that bad, and the view from the summit makes it worth walking off, in my opinion.
By Steve Marr From: North Pole/Fairbanks, AK Nov 19, 2007
We "discovered" an interesting variation to Sliding Board when there was a steady stream of water trickling down the second pitch. From the first belay, step right, climb up a steep slab, and gain the 2nd pitch of Tidal Wave. Follow the white rock just above the rim of the arch in one long, run out pitch to a horizontal flake. You can get a little protection in a flaring crack before traversing right to a bolted anchor (clipping into the anchors was a relief). Rejoin Sliding Board's 4th pitch above the anchors.
The Slabs
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