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Nicky's Crack 

5.11d

   

FA: Mark Sprague 8/99
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 305 page views

Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 15, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Don't be fooled by the name, it's not a crack climb....
"Nikki's Crimps" might be more appropriate.... A great technical climb which can stymie confident 5.12 climbers from time to time....

The route starts up more moderate moves in a corner gaining a good rest followed by stout face climbing following the thin cracks in the headwall....

Very technical....


Location 

To the right of Jolt and Dolt there is a smooth face about 40 feet up, split by a few very thin cracks...
Follow bolts below up a corner to the face...


Protection 

7 bolts to the same quick clips as Hinterland Highway (5.6).



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By BTodd
From: Croton, NY
May 26, 2008

although you can just top rope it (using the 5.6 next to it), I thought it was a nice 11 to lead if you are starting to get into leading 11's... especially since if you can't make it and your partner can't get up it either, you can always lead the 5.6 and get your gear etc. I agree that it is more small crimps and footwork than a crack.

By M Sprague
Aug 27, 2008

I think the name should be spelled Nicky's Crack, as in Nicky Dyal. I'm not absolutely sure, but I think she was the girl at the crag with her dad at the time of the FA. She made a bit of an impression on us all. We were having a conversation about elves and wood nymphs and along she came, looking exactly like one

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Aug 28, 2008

It's been changed. Why were you talking about elves and stuff in the first place Mark?

By M Sprague
Aug 29, 2008

Lol, I think we were seeing them up there quite often, before the masses of people came and scared them off.