A wakeup call for sporty sport climbers I'm sure... You will find all kinds of moves on this route that are hard to find elsewhere at Rumney... Thought provoking chimneys,and cracks, even a little off-width technique will come in handy... Most of the bolts are close together but there are a couple that might make someone shaky if they are used to Rumney's close bolts...
Start up the chimney, remember that using your feet well will help you conserve Energy for the strenuous moves at the top... As the chimney ends make moves left to a good stance and figure a way through a "boulder problem" where you have a few choices (i stay left) to another stance then run it out a little on easy ground to your next bolt and the final chimney/offwidth... Stem for a bit then get in to the squeeze chimney reaching back deep for holds and eventually laying back a few moves to a good hold at the top... Clip the chains and catch your breath...
There are many options as far as what moves and techniques you will use this is just my take on it...
It is sad that this route is very often wet...
Location
The dark (often wet) chimney on the right side of the crag...
This was lead originally on gear by Tim Gotwells and called Cold Shoulder, then left fallow for many years until unknowingly retroed by Esmond. It is now a quite popular route when dry. An excellent route for warming up before the harder routes as it uses your whole body. There are several ways to do the top, some more pretty than others! The anchors are right next to those of Strict Scrutiny 13d and the mostly abandoned Paradox.
By Jay Knower Administrator Aug 20, 2007 rating: 5.9+
The best 5.9 at Rumney.
By Jay Knower Administrator Aug 29, 2008 rating: 5.9+
I climbed this again today and I have to say that it was just as excellent as I remembered it. I made a pact with my belayer that from this day on, I will climb it to kick off the fall climbing season every year. She, unfortunately, did not buy in to the pact.
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