A cool little trad pitch hidden in the open between two 5.12's. If you like finger cracks this one has your name on it as it is a perfect splitter layback finger crack leaning right. It's a bummer that it's a little too short. The crux is pulling over a small tricky roof low down on the route.
Climbing this route is a good way to set up a top rope on Rap Echo (5.12a/b).
Climb up under the small roof lowdown and place a couple pieces before tackling the crux pull over the roof (harder than it looks). Take a little rest and then enjoy sweet laybacking and finger-locking up the corner and if you close your eyes and dream you might believe its a hundred feet long but when you open your eyes the sweet section is still about 25 feet long. Oh well, you're at Rumney and you're climbing a sweet crack, what more can you expect?
Location
Right between Rap Echo (5.12a/b) and the Skewer (5.12c). Look for the nice crack angling right.
Protection
Mostly small/finger-sized stuff but bring up to a red or yellow Camalot.
By Bob Packwood From: Longtucky, CO Jul 6, 2009 rating: 5.9+
This is an "Eldo-esque" trad climb sitting in the middle of a bunch of classic Rumney 5.HARD sport routes. What I'm saying is there ain't nobody ever on this puppy.
After anchoring your belayer, turn the roof with good pro and then place more bomber gear at your nipples, then enjoy the sweet layback/jam corner that eats pro all the way to the chains. Some great 5.9 moves in the corner too. Rack up to a #2 camalot sews it.
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