Leesa negotiating the hanging corner on a mostly d...
Description
Polly Purebred used to be a runout and neglected trad climb until a retrobolting modernized it a few years ago. It's proximity to the most popular 5.10 at Rumney (Underdog) guarantees heavy traffic.
Easy juggy climbing leads to a rest ledge. Put a long draw on the bolt off the ledge and launch into the overhanging crux (previously "protected" by a shady pin). This crux can be baffling until the correct sequence is found. Layback up the wonderful hanging corner. Slabby moves give way to another crux below the anchors.
Welcome to the 21st century Polly, we're all glad you're here.
FA trad version (alternative start to Underdog): Mark Sprague FA sport version (added the top): Chris Smith
Jeez, I thought it protected great. I put gear in. The bolts are very welcome though, especially as you can now do the top. I pulled a refrigerator sized block out of the alcove before climbing it.
I agree, the old trad version had fine protection, and was "something different" amidst all the clip-ups. On the other hand, the new bolted finish is better.
If Rumney were a less specialized area that could still tolerate mixed routes, Polly Purebred might have been a good one: bolts where needed, especially on the finish, but no retrobolts at the overhang where solid trad gear can be placed.
Some of the other old moderates would likewise be more fun, but not necessarily more dangerous, if you had to carry and place a bit of gear to lead them.
By lee hansche From: goffstown, nh Jan 29, 2008 rating: 5.10c
i like that it is now a nice independant line that gives me another warm up... and it does get me quite warm... i too would be happy to place some gear (people who know me know i love placing gear)...
on a side note this line feels 5.10c to me most days (not the 10b the guide book suggests)...
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Feb 8, 2009
I was climbing at Main Cliff and I noticed that the left anchor bolt on Polly Purebread is kind of messed up. It's loose and it clearly flexes in the hole. I didn't have a wrench with me to tighten it, but I'm not sure if that would do the trick. It looks like it might need to be replaced.
I was just up on this climb on August 20 '09. The left anchor bolt is still in bad condition. I was able to EASILY wiggle the bolt up and down, and wouldnt be surprised if I could pull it with a little force. I dont think that a wrench would do any good at this point. The right anchor seemed solid. Just be aware.
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