The wickedly steep roof to the left of Centerpiece. Romp up some 5.11ish crimping up an overhanging bulge to a rest ledge before the business. Rest well. Then get moving into the awkward situation that awaits above. Use the prominent flake to make progress up the massive overhang. Would be a great inverted layback if there were feet with which to oppose. Be more creative, unless you're a campusing mutant. A super-awkward diving-board style mantle brings one to the top. Cleaning draws is rather hard.
Some Noodle history: I first ascended this route with Kit Dover on 8/9/86. We aided it as we weren't using bolts back then. The original start is the right slanting flake/crack just left of present start. The name came from the two micro wires I had threaded together to reach a very blind placement at the top of the flake. Nothing like the sound of a small nut settling into Rumney's soft fine grained schist as you high step into the bottom of your 5 step et. We did the climb in two pitches with Kit leading the 2nd pitch. The lightning and rain that day upped the adventure ante. On 6/29/91 I returned with Scott Reitsema. The starting two bolts were in. The first the start to Centerpiece, the second, the new direction. Scott led off and fired the first pitch onsight with just the first two bolts! I placed the third on TR as I followed. Scott then led off on the roof, back when the large rocking rock provided a critical gear placement. It was and still is one of the most amazing onsight efforts I've seen. Scott sent it with one hang including pulling the lip! I wasn't there when he retro bolted the climb but I'm sure it had to be easier not having to place gear.
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