Scattered in the woods at the base of the hill, the Black Jack boulders offer some classic problems on great stone. The boulders start near the road and extend uphill almost to Waimea.
This area is complex as boulders lean upon boulders and caves abound. Take some time and explore this area and you will surely find some hidden classics as well as some first ascent potential. Must do problems include, but are not limited to: Zig Zag Crack V1, Umbrella Traverse V2, Black Jack Crack V2x, Spraguesorus V5, Pyramid Power V7, Satan on a Halfshell V10, and Satan's Choice V11.
The Black Jacks can be blissful on dry winter days, or torturous in the heat of summer. Since most of the boulders sit on or near lowlying marsh land, bug season arrives with a vengence in the Black Jacks.
Getting There
Park in the lot. DO NOT PARK ALONG THE ROAD. Walk along the road to telephone pole 37 and follow a well-worn trail uphil into the woods. At the first big boulder you see, follow the trail left, through the Black Jacks.
Zig Zag Crack is perhaps the best V1 boulder problem in all on New England if not in all of the country. Yes, that is high praise, but this problem lives up to the hype.Locate the obvious crack on the Zig Zag Boulder and follow the crack using fingerlocks, laybacks, and high steps. The problem is about 15 feet high and would qualify as a highball if not for the perfect landing. A much harder variation (V9) starts as a sit to the right and climbs ...[more]
it might have started because the Black Jack Boulder is like a mini crag... but i think it makes sense to break it down, makes it easy to navigate... would be great if someone would make a map of the boulders...