Rumney 

Today I was outraged to watch as an ignorant redneck threw a half-full Redbull can from his pickup truck at a climber's face....the climber was a nice, unsuspecting dude walking well off the road....
He only sustained a cut on his chin, but WTF? I never thought I'd see that on Buffalo Rd....
We were unable to get the plate number on the truck...bummer....

Basilisk has scanned Schist Another Hangout, the old guidebook for Rumney. You can download it here.

These days id say Mountainproject is a must since this is the best guide to rumney!!! :)

We climbed Rumney last month and loved it! I have to say that the best part of the weekend stay (other than climbing) was camping at Mountain Pine's Campground. It's only about a mile away from the climbs and the owners are amazing. We were there Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Friday's weather was beautiful, as was Saturday until it started to pour Saturday night. We would have been soaked if the owners hadn't stopped by and put up a canopy so that we could finish cooking dinner. They also wheeled down a whole bunch of fire wood to keep us warm. That's unheard of where I come from. Cheers to the owners!

From climber1949 on: July 20, 2009, 11:34:18 AM:

There is now a small climbing shop at the Tenney mountain Ski Area, they carry petzl, harness, helmets, ropes, biners, draws etc and they have climbing shoes and helmets for rent. There is also a cool zipline canopy tour and mountainside yurts for rent! 888-289-1020 whitemountainexploration.com

Until the guide comes out the maps ive been posting can serve as a "Ghetto Guide"... Here is a link to a forum where ive posted the 30+ maps ive put up so far... Print em out and at least you will know most of what is there and how hard it is...


www.mountainproject.com/v/eastern_states/rumney_guidebook/10>>>

Considering replacing some top anchors next time im up as alot of these are worn through. What would be the accepted variety to use? aregular screw link on a hanger, Or a setup similar to Fixe.

I thing the best thing to put woud be rap rings so people dont top rope of them as much so they wont wear out as fast. it will be very appreciaed if you do change/fix the worn gear we need more people like you.

Hell ive left 4 binders up there already to lower off. Would a 1/2 screw link and a new hanger be sufficient? Although i think quick clips would be a bit easier on some of the harder clips.

Half inch quicklinks work great. 3/8" is fine for the top ones if you want to save a little. The 1/2" ones take the wear much better. I wouldn't bother with stainless steel quicklinks...no real need here. Just make sure to put 2 on each hanger so the rope will run correctly. Spray them with some grey or black rustolium to take the shine off while you have them at home. I like them better than quickclips for the reason mentioned before; less of an urge to directly TR through them.

Are the quick clips removable from the repel ring or do i need a new hanger

would a 3/8 stainless or 7/16 plated be sufficient?
something like these www.fixehardware.com/screw_links_oval.htm

I have always been under the impression that 3/8 or bigger and steel is the best bet, i did a little reading and it didn't say anything about stainless vs plated, so I am not sure about that. Anyone else have anything to add? JComeau thank you for the effort you are putting into this, we need more people in the climbing community who are willing to help out.

For me its simple. I climb there. I enjoy the place. I may not climb the hardest routes, but part of its mine and ito me its part of climbing there. Take care of it and it will last. No free rides for me. I dont mind putting in a little effort to pay back the oppurtunity to cimb there.

You have inspired me I am going to be looking into fixing some anchors to, Just know we all appreciate the work you are will to put in to benefit everyone else thank you

Not a problem. Its only fair. You cant take it for granted. So many times i see when somone brings to somones attention, yet do not act on it themselves for what ever reason.

Please folks, be courteous and clean your tick marks when you are finished. It DOES degrade other peoples experience.

So as to dispel any rumors about the Firetrucks and Sirens around pole 37 two Saturdays ago: A climber broke his leg while trying to make a ropeless ascent of Supernova. He is fine and expected to make a full recovery. Luckily he had friends with him to aid with the rescue.

Thanks for the update James I had been curious about it too ever since. Hope the climber is alright.

Afterthoughts: bostonrockgym.wordpress.com/2009/10/23/a-steep-learning-curv>>> a worthwhile read

The new edition to Ward's Rumney Guide is finally available. Here is a link for buying it directly: www.rumneyclimbing.com/

Hello Everyone

Im wondering about climbing at Rumney mid-winter. I would guess there are some cliffs that are better than others, in terms of like sunshine and snowmelt, etc. Does anyone have any advice on this? Probably main cliff and jimmy cliff are good destinations, any others?

Prudential, Waimea, and Monsters are all good winter destinations.

Main cliff, prudential and Waimea are the most consistent... yellow knife can be good too as well as darth vader and a couple others

ATTENTION: In March, 2010, there was a massive rockfall at Main Cliff. It probably originated above Iron Man, Gold Digger, or Rock du Jours. Be extremely careful when hanging out at the base near these routes. This area is very unstable. The possibility of another rockfall appears significant.

Please consider alternate cliffs until this area stabilizes.

The rock slide was near to the top of Iron Man. The scary lay back corner dike blocks of Iron Man were as loose as they always appeared. This area is now a shallow steep corner.
Where are the falcons this year? I saw a orange sign from a distance where Hassig's Libido is.

Repost from NEClimbs:
I went up last night and early this morning and cleaned off most of the sketchy stuff that I could see. Any of you who were climbing or hanging out below since the avalanche would have been horrified if you had been able to see the stuff above you. A bunch of car hood size chunks slid off with hardly a nudge along with a ton dinner plate size and smaller.

What originally fell out was a 40 foot wide by 20 plus foot high chunk of stone, from the top pitch of Iron Man all the way over to next to Rock Du Jours at the level of The Thang anchors. It was basically a humongous flake situated in a corner and sitting on a steeply down sloping ledge. It looked like a solid wall from below, the way most saw it, but from the top one could see that it was already detached and had a 9 inch crack behind it. The resulting ledge, once it is cleaned up more and the Thang anchor is replaced, looks like it would be a stunning place for a lunch or safety briefing. You could reach it by traversing in from Rock du Jours easily with some small cams for pro or by climbing the Thang.

Some bad news: I did notice a broken egg that looked like a peregrine's to me and was fresh enough that it had to be from this year. It was probably originally about the size of a hen's egg, browny red with speckles. I don't know much about Peregrines, but hopefully if they aren't disturbed, they will lay another.

Affected routes: The third pitch of Iron Man looks like it will be a lot harder, but still very doable and when it is cleaned up and a new top anchor put in, a nice, exposed, mostly trad test piece.
The Thang needs new anchors and a good sweeping of the top. The anchors were in the bottom of the giant missing flake. Rock du Jours seems unaffected so far, but there is a very big block on the left side, where you do the undercling up to the hand rail going back right, that looks very sketchy, but I wasn't able to get it out of there. I dropped my big bar and it turned into a pretzel so it wasn't very effective. With the right tools, I think it should be removed at a later time, but I am guessing it won't fall out by it's self right away if you don't breath on it too much. Gold Member and the Goldbug finish need their tops swept off.

I think most of the worst stuff has been removed, but it is probably a good idea to be especially careful where you hang out at the Main Cliff for a while. That block on Rock du Jours and lots of sweeping still needs to be done, but I would want to find out what is going on with the Peregrines before doing any more work up high. Maybe avoid the top pitch of Rock du Jours unless you are very careful and there is nobody else at the crag

Mark, thanks for cleaning the rubble up! Do you know where the birds decided to nest?

Thanks for checking that out Mark, and for cleaning that up. I'll keep the notifications up on the site for a while, at least until that block gets trundled.

Thanks for the update Mark! Much appreciated.

i put out an email to chris martin asking for peregrine details... ill let you know if i hear anything...

For what it's worth, we watched peregrine's doing fly-by's while we were up at The Crow's Nest.

Peregrine closure is in effect.
Rumney - Peregrine Falcons have taken up residence on the Summit Cliff. The entire Summit Cliff (including “Flea Surgeon” and “Northwest Passage”), as well as the Asylum Cliff to climbers’ left and the Monolith to climbers’ right) are temporarily closed to climbing.
This post is from the access fund .org. It list closures and restrictions of climbing areas of the entire country.

Thank you for the note Bradley. I put a notification up on the main page, as well as access notes on the individual cliffs affected by the closure.

New Rumney Guide has been out since Christmas. Its excellent.

HELLO CLIMBERS. WANT TO LET YOU KNOW THERES A HOSTEL OPENING IN RUMNEY NH, MINUTES FROM THE ROCK CLIMBING AREA.PRICES ARE $25.00 PER PERSON.WE HAVE ROOM FOR 8 PEOPLE WITH MORE TO COME.WE WILL BE UP AN RUNNING SHORTLY. CALL FOR DETAILS. WE ARE THE COMMON CAFE AND ANTIQUES. RIGHT ON THE CORNER. COME IN FOR A SANDWICH AND AN ESRPESSO. WE SELL ROCK CLIMBING GEAR AND GREAT BREAKFAST SANDWICHS. ITS WARM IN HERE SO WHEN YOU GET COLD COME AN HAVE A NICE HOT CHAI TEA AND HIT THE INTERNET. YES WE HAVE WIFI.SEE YOU SOON 1-603-786-9908 BRIAN R PAQUETTE

Brian and the Commons Cafe provided the climbing community with some awesome coffee for the Nor'easters ACC pancake breakfast. Thanks a lot Brian, I hope visiting climbers recognize your support.

Stop shouting. We can hear you just fine.

Writing in all caps actually makes it harder for people to read what you've written.

Does anyone know what the official deal is with the expansion of the main cliff parking lot as well the apparent rec path being installed along the road? Will definatly be nice to have a safe walk up to the rest of the mountain.

Relevant info posted at another site -
Rumney Rocks Climbing Area is about to get a makeover. Rumney Rocks is a popular Recreation Area located on the White Mountain National Forest in Rumney, NH. Construction crews will be starting the week of October 18th to redesign the Main Cliff Parking Lot and build a section of trail from the lot to the 5.8 Crag. The redesign of the parking lot will seek to improve safety and better define the parking spaces that are available.
According to Assistant District Ranger Tom Giles, "We're really excited to get this project started. Improving the safety of our climbers by establishing a trail that parallels Buffalo Road and keeps them from having to walk on Buffalo Road was a key part of this." Giles also pointed out that the funding for this project is coming entirely from the sale of Recreation Passes on the Forest. The Recreation Pass program allows us to keep at least 80% of the fees collected here to invest back onto the White Mountain National Forest.
Redesigning Main Cliff Parking Lot is Phase 1 of a more comprehensive project which will eventually establish a trail that parallels Buffalo to connect the Main Parking Lot to the Main Cliff Parking Lot. The Main Parking Lot will also receive a face-lift. The entire project is planned to be completed within the next few years.
The Main Cliff Parking Lot will be closed starting October 18 and will remain closed for about four weeks during redesign construction. However, the Main Parking Lot will remain open.

Rumney Bouldering, these are routes from Black Jack and The Pound!

www.youtube.com/user/niceporch#p/u/5/Hv_PP_awSWs

Had the priveledge of being Brian's first guests at the Common Cafe this weekend. Gotta say it was a pleasure, you basically get an apartment 2 minutes from the rocks for $25/night, it simply can't be beat. Great hospitality and equally great grub, thank you Brian!

Might anyone have any information on the current conditions up there? wondering if its worth a drive this weekend(should it not rain). anything would be greatly appreciated!

I would also love an update on the conditions from anyone lucky enough to live in the area. Any idea when one might usually be able to comfortably climb (ie. not to cold) and there be some dry rock?

The conditions right now, are fairly typical for spring. there is some rock you can climb because the weather has been good for the last few days. it is still only getting into the 40's as a hgih but places like MAin Cliff, Prudential, New Wave get a lot of sun so if it is sunny you will not have to worry about the cold.

Asylum and Summit cliff are closed for the birds sake again, according to the access fund.org

A friend and I are hitting up Jimmy clif for the slab area anyone help me by telling me how that area is as far as wet

Hey Bradley your link brought me to the Humane Society site so this is the link: Access Fund

Also Patrick, I climbed up there the day before the snow and it was all fairly dry. We did get a few inches up here but most has melted. It has also been windy and warm so I think you should be good for Clip-a-dee and the other slab routes :)

Mountain Pines Campground is open for the 2011 season. We are offering special rates for the off season for all rock climber. Prices are only $5.00 per person per night. This rate is good until May 15, 2011. We are located just minutes away on Rte 25. Please visit www.mountainpinescampground.com or call 603-786-9955 for more information.

Whats the deal with camping here. IS it still cool to camp across the street at the farm?

Lost my green petzl nomad rope and rope bag the weekend of May 1st . I may have lost it in the parking lot because I remember hiking out with it. Any information would be helpful, Thanks! Please give me a call if you know anything. CHuck 207-249-5855.

Dear Climbers,

We have just begun offering space for visiting climbers. We have a 2 floor, 3 BR apartment with a full kitchen, porch, grill, living room & bathroom. It is a 3 minute drive or 15 minute walk to the Rumney Climbing Area. Bed linens are changed after every stay. Rates: 1 person=$60/night, 2p=$80/n, 3p=$100/n,4-6p=$120/n.

We also have tent space and/or a "shack down by the river" with a porch overlooking a tributary to the Baker. The shack doesn't have hot water, but does have an outhouse, grill and running water! River Shack $50/n. Tentspace negotiable.

Just give me a call and we'll talk about what you need and how to accommodate. We are not trying to gouge visitors or anything; just in the process of trying to sell the house and can't take on any long-term tenants at the moment. We would love to have you consider staying with us! Call (603)-731-5733 or email fjthurston@plymouth.edu for more info/pictures.

Living room and kitchen! Submitted By: Filip J.M.T. on May 25, 2011

The weekend before last, I took my mother for a tour of Rumney with my step dad. She just found out she was sick a few months ago, so may not be around very long, so after driving them to Vermont to see some things, I swung back through NH to show them where I had spent so much time over the years. They got the climber's experience of guerrilla bivying nearby, then borrowing a table to cook up some breakfast at the Calm Post Cafe, since Katie wasn't up yet to serve us, as I had hoped, then got an early start hiking before the crowds. She had always been very vigorous and enjoyed hiking, but in her frail state I wasn't sure how far we could go. Anyway, we managed a full circuit up to the Main Cliff, Bonsai, Waimea, Jimmy Cliff and over the top to Orange Crush and down via the Kennel Wall path. They loved it, and recognized the magic of the area.

One thing though, that I was grossed out and embarrassed by as a climber (and person in general), was the amount of shit paper and crap below the Main Cliff. What the hell is wrong with people? Some of it was just below the cliff and literally 10 feet from the trail, under an overhanging boulder, in plain view from the trail. If somebody was sick, OK, I could understand them having to run and drop their draws, but come on!, Clean up after your self and bury everything. There is no excuse for such disgusting slobbery. There was more than 1 sick person could account for though. It is really disturbing to me that there are that many completely out of it people at the cliff. Unfortunately, I find that a lot of the paper is from women who wipe themselves after peeing and then just leave the paper there thinking it will biodegrade, so it is all right. Please people, get it together!

I am looking for a partner for Wednesday, August 10, 2011 and a ride to Manchester or as close to Manchester as I can get. I am willing to pay for gas. I like to climb 10s and 11s, I have a rope but only a few quickdraws. I am on a trip to visit family in Vermont.

Please call Jim at 303.957.7488.

Thanks
Jim

Camping at Mountain Pines Campground. Prices for all rock climbers all year is only $10.00 pp per night. Each site is private, picnic table and fire pit. Hot shower! No Reservations needed! We are open until the snow falls. Located just 2 miles from Rumney Rocks. Camp sites on Baker River.

Address is:
2759 Rte 25
Rumney NH 03266 any questions call 603-786-9955.

Hope to see you here!

Do I still need to buy a Recreation Pass for my car if I plan on camping at the Farm (and leaving my car there) and just walking across the street to the crags?

No, it is a parking pass. So if you walk up, or ride in somebody else's car, no fee.

Some cool video footage of David Graham, Luke Parady and Joey Kinder from back in the day.

I added a Southern White Mountains:Rumney conditions section to the www.neclimbs.com/forum.php so you can post up and check current conditions without cluttering it up too much here. If you post conditions there (please do), try to keep it on topic to keep it uncluttered and useful for finding quick information. Thanks.

Found three draws at Meadows on Saturday. Message me if they're yours.