This climb is a V4 until the topout. Start on jugs (flexes so pull down!) right foot way out right then pop up to crimp with right hand, bring you elft up and match on the long rail. Bring your foot up to the starting jug and cross right hand to next crimp (bad). Left hand to bad undercling, then move feet, bump left ahnd to crimp below topout, move up feet into the crack and grab those slopers. Up and right there is a small nub you can grab but the topout is totally commiting. Make sure you climb up the back side to brush off pine needles and look at the holds.
Location
Obvious up and left-slanting crack with heinous, committing topout.
Protection
Bring spotters and pads (both plural for a reason).
I've always found the topout to be quite easy, but I won't deny that it's totally committing. Hang from the slopers with your wrists on the lip, get a heel as deep as you can, and just roll over. The topouts on Monkey Press and Zap (both V3) seem more difficult.
I agree w/ Mr. Dalhaus. Really fun problem (easier if you're 5'10" or taller) but I think the mantle is easier than it's reputation would lead you to believe. Just trust your heel!
By Mike Thompson From: amherst NH Apr 21, 2009 rating: V6
so i was out at pway last week and was watchin a bunch of guys get on this route... it really doesnt look so bad... scary factor wise at least :) i really wanna get on it!... WHOSE WITH ME! :)
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