Located in Raymond NH, Pawtuckaway State Park is the southern most of the major climbing destinations in New Hampshire.... The rock is smooth granite of a different quality than the granite climbing else where in the state.... As with all New Hampshire crags, it is best in the autumn but fun always.... Known primarily for its bouldering which is some of the best in the country, Pawtuck also hosts a few small crags which are popular for their slabs and crack climbs which, though short, are of super quality.... So, from bouldering to trad climbing, here is a place to hone your skills before you unleash them on the world...Or for those who aren't local this is a great place to take a road trip to.... Pawtuckaway State Park has a campground that is nice (family camping style not dirtbag style) and even has a few camp sites with boulders on them (I recommend site #4).... Camping is prohibited anywhere else in the park.... For more info on the park and camping
Bouldering: many areas with high quality granite boulders from low ball V0 to high balls and V13.... The bouldering here is unmatched in New Hampshire with fine grain granite that will make quick work of wearing through your skin, but you won't want to stop.... Most popular spots are the Boulder Natural Area, Round Pond Boulders, Blair Woods, among others.... Check out the New England climbing documentary Uncommon Ground for a little intro to what you will be climbing on in this magical forest of rocks.... Bouldering video sample:
Trad and Top Roping: The lower slabs, Upper cliff, Devils Den And more offer great trad climbing, although you wouldn't know it on a busy day 'cause all you can see are top ropes.... The Upper and Lower Slabs are very popular for summer camps and family top roping outings.... The trad climbing here is short but sweet, 50 feet on average, though Devil's Den offers longer pitches (and fewer crowds).... Crack Master Dean Potter learned much of his crack climbing skill jamming the perfect cracks of P-way and so could you....
Sport climbing: Nope....
WARNING!!! The biting insects of Pawtuckaway don't mess around...They are out for blood and they will come after you like you killed their mother (and you may have on another trip)...Bring bug dope, long sleeves, pants, hats, hoods, and a shotgun to fend them off if you come in the spring or early summer.... Fall is the time to be here, and by the time the kids are back in school the crowds at the popular crags and the bugs have gone away and the park is yours....
Getting There
Getting to the park is easy.... Take exit 5 off of Rt 101 in Raymond NH, then follow signs.... Getting to the climbing areas is more challenging and will be specified in area descriptions....
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pawtuckaway:
I cleaned this line out from under tons of dirt, and small plant life not really knowing how well it would climb... i was very happy with the outcome...The problem climbs right to left along the lip of a cave following a series of different holds, heelhooks and fun moves to a nice top out right before you run in to a tree...maybe a hard lower start could be done but this start works fine for me... try it and suggest a grade...Video link... Check ...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
Ladd thanks for clarifying which months are good...when i was there i suffered the attack of the flies/mosquitoes...anybody have more bouldering pictures? for the amount of problems, there aren't a whole lot of pictures
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Feb 15, 2009
Basilisk has scanned an old guidebook for Pawtuckaway. You can download it here.
A bit of a trek through the woods, careful for bottoming out or scraping your car with branches. The area is a bit hidden, but has amazing climbs and feels great in such a secluded area. It feels a bit like a hidden gem in the middle of the woods... Stop at the information building, they'll know somewhat how to get there. May take a few tries and misses before you get on the right track. There should be fliers explaining how to get to the boulders, drive careful!
so i want to come to pawtuckaway in july. i realize it wont be of the same quality as the fall, but will it be miserable? my dad has been to rumney at the same time of year, but it was an unusually cold day which he thought discouraged bugs. thanks, paul
Paul, Pawtuckaway is about half covered by swamp, so the bugs can be intense. July is likely to be hot and humid as well. With bug spray you could probably enjoy yourself, but it's risky with the temps and the bugs.
Also, this conversation should probably be happening in the forums...
Just finished putting together a video of a day at Pawtuckaway featuring classics like Overlooked and Hobbit Hole and also some of the new Trailside stuff ive cleaned in the last year or so... check it out...
What are people calling the big area down below the south slope of South Mountain now, the general area where the huge Mowgli boulder is? About 5-6 years ago Ward and Chris Smith, Dave Quinn and myself rediscovered the area, cleaned and put up a bunch of problems. I then showed Brett the area and there has since been more development (a highball V10 among others). I haven't been able to get back for a few years, but I thought this area was at least equal if not better than most of the other areas. Im surprised to see nothing about it here yet.
The area off the back of South Mountain has been dubbed "Area 51" by those responsible for most of the recent development. Due to a lack of a clear trail and concern amongst park officials about hunters frequenting the area, I haven't wanted to post anything about it. There are probably 100+ problems out there now, but the hike is roughly 40 minutes to get there.
Hmm.. I don't remember it taking quite that long to get to it. I used to drive in via Reservation Rd, take a left on Tower Rd and in a few hundred yards park on the rt at the junction with Mountain Tr. (Look for #5 on park map) Walk in here and instead of breaking left like you were going to the tower, stay straight until you are coming down the south slope of S Mountain. Break left off the dirt track and head basically east with S Mountain on your left and a small marsh on your rt. You will first go by more scattered boulders, then the boulders get better, bigger and more clustered.
Unless the park officials really don't want anything published, I think you should go ahead and post. I just made sure I wore orange during hunting season and never had a problem.. I know my friends and I must have put up at least 50 problems and many were super good. With the further development, it must be loaded with classics. The walk is well worth it.
tried finding the area you were talking about but had some difficulty. there were two intersections that i came across. I went riightish/straight at both of them and started to go down a hill, but the road was in rough shape and decided that id rather have a better idea of were the boulders were before i trekked through the river/trail.
was i right in going right/straight at both intersections?
That sounds right. The road has been pretty wet the last few weeks, but if you keep following it you'll come to a swamp that visible on your left. Take a left off the road and bushwhack into the woods before you get to the swamp.
Jesse, you were right in going right each time, but if you were looking for a trail, you won't find one. I went out there about 3 weeks ago and whatever herd path there used to be has been destroyed by the ice storm last winter. There is a cairn marking where it starts, but there aren't any boulders visible from the trail because they are probably 15 minutes from the trail. When conditions improve, I can take you out there.
1 decent boulder just a couple min in from the dirt track, up hill towards the ridge with an overhang, facing you. start on the rt side of the overhang, sitting and traverse left then top out at the crack. some more stuff in the back too. i remember it being a decent place to warm up in the winter as it got the sun and tended to dry out quickly. no idea what we called it
found it today.. the climbing there looks to be pretty good. most of the stuff was along a stream correct? The trail is very faint but on my way back I found it. there also seems to be some slab stuff there too. Some of that stuff looked fun. I only found like 15 or so boulders that were tall enough to be climbed on.. and then it started to rain.
Has anybody climbed at the Magic Pond in the middle of Pawtuckaway Park? if you have and have any information to share please add it to the new Magic Pond area I added to the site. I posted some pictures of the boulders so if you know the names of any of the climbs let us know.
Does anyone know what the actual rule pertaining to dogs is here? I keep finding conflicting info. Are they allowed in the park or not? Do they enforce this? What about after labor day? Thanks.
Can't quote the rule for you Adam, but I encounter dogs there every time I go. I have friends who bring dogs as well. Never seen or heard of anyone catching grief for it.
Romeo, my dog, has always gone to p-way. I think that the climbing areas are far enough away from the main area that it really isn't an issue. Especially blair woods/fire tower/magic pond/etc.