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Cinema Gully
WI2
Avg: 2.9 from 78
votes
Routes in 02. Main Face (aka South Face - Lower)
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Coin de la Souris WI3+ |
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Gully 1 WI4 |
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Gully 1-1/2 WI4+ |
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Gully 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 |
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Gully 2-1/2 WI3 |
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Great Madness WI5 |
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Freeze Frame T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 A0 |
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Cinema Gully WI2 |
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Rikki Tikki Tavi T WI5 R |
| Type: | Ice, 600 ft (182 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 11,225 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | ESG Greene on Mar 27, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible.
Details
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
This is a great climb that ascends the slabby and beautiful South face of Mt. Willard that you can't miss as you drive North through Crawford Notch on US302. It is a classic climb and lives up to it's hype, although it can often be busy on weekends. There are several bulges on a moderate angle slab with the longest at the top. There are 2 main exits form this climb. To the left it stays at a sustained Grade 2 and to the right it is usually closer to Grade 3.
The climb can possibly be done in 3 long 60m pitches. Belays can be made in several ice bulges and unless things line up perfectly another pitch will be necessary. So, keep this in mind, especially if you are doing the Right Hand Exit.
[A 70m is very handy as P2 up the center of the wide, open "gully" tends to be a tad longer than 60m. R Hall NH Admin.]
DESCENT-
The easiest and recommended way back to the tracks after the climb is to follow the tree ledge to the right, until you come to an exposed ice slab (the base of the "Upper Slabs", 3 / 3+) at which point you can lead across this (a few yards of Grade 2 to 3, depending on conditions) for 40-50 ft to where snow usually resumes. Move a bit further right and look for a large (oak,maple?) tree below. [At this point you are well right (100 +/- feet) of the slabs, and should be directly below "Upper Hitchcock Gully" 3 to 3+. The large tree is the top anchor for Lower Hitchcock Gully. Rappel into and down Hitchcock Gully. [Be sure no one is leading UP the gully, 5.4 - 5.6 rock, without a lot of pro.] A single 70m get you over most of the difficulties, but some may prefer doubled 60m's. Use your judgement to decide whether to downclimb or rap. Take care always, but especially if you are first down after a snowfall as may be short ice steps hidden under the snow.
Some people continue up a climb on the upper part of Mt. Willard and follow the descent directions from there. It is, however, a significant trek to the summit.
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