Type: | Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | S. Streibert and D. Merritt, 1971 |
Page Views: | 13,417 total · 65/month |
Shared By: | Kris Gorny on Mar 7, 2008 |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
An incredible-looking blob of cool blue ice. Due to its size, Standard Route has plenty of options - and all seem fun. The line of least resistance goes at WI3 but some of the bulges may be steep and harder, if tackled straight on. The only downside to this awesome climb is the crowds.
Most popular variation of the Standard climbs to the right, through the right-side cave with bolts. Setting a belay in the cave, although interesting, results in 3 instead of 2 pitches, with some awkward leading just after the cave (the belayer can't see you and you need to be careful to avoid rope drag). The better way, in my opinion, is to skip the cave and lead all the way up to the top of the bulge (60m ropes). From the top of the bulge continue on easy bulges to the trees. Near the top, there's also a short WI4 curtain on the right, for those who want to add an extra kick.
Reference: "An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England" by S. P. Lewis & R. Wilcox
Location
From the top of the climb, walk right and follow the trail, past the gully on top of Dracula . The trail eventually goes down and winds back. Hike past the base of the cliff back to the start of Standard.
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