Black Dike 

Maybe this route should be resubmitted by someone interested in actually describing the route.

I second that...I would love to hear what the route is like.... I have written much more about 50ft sport routes... please do tell....

Although rates WI 5, the Black Dike is a moderate ice climb over interesting and technically varied terrain. The first pitch is an easy, snowy slope that does not protect well. The second pitch involves a traverse up and left into the main tongue of ice that forms the upper section of the climb. In fat years, the ice comes down and the traverse is trivial. In thin condition, the traverse is more challenging. Once the ice is gained, the route moves up to ever thicker and broader flows. The third and final pitch ascends a couple of short vertical tiers.

Zach and Lee, I resubmitted the route description. I climbed it the other day. Freezing cold. Bitter wind. Brittle ice. It was awesome.

Thanks Jay, much better.... Now I gotta get up there sometime....

In fat conditions, like we encountered, it's barely WI4. There were two really vertical sections, both about 15 feet long (one right after rock traverse, and one on the second pitch). The rest of the climb is not more then 80 degrees - scary looking, but you put pro from good stances. It might be more demanding in thinner conditions, but what we saw was not “sustained WI4-5”.

Agree with Artem. We did it the day after you guys and the first pitch felt like WI2, second WI4-, third WI3. Very short rock traverse. Climbing Dike can really change depending on conditions. Four years ago it was much thinner and half of the second pitch was climbing on rock.

I think you should understand why the WI5 rating was regarded. I placed a few of the pins on it in 83 on a really thin to no ice day with the temperature nearly at zero. The dike was rated WI5 because matured ice climbers didn't want the inexperienced WI3-4 climbers risking their lives on this climb. The weather can change in a 1/2 an hour from nice to severe. I do understand your rating I have climbed this route in three different forms but to let it go as a causal climb is a joke. A rattle snake is a casual snake until you come to close to it. What you might hear rattling on Cannon is your bones when things begin to go wrong. It might be casual on as particular day but in reality doing any climb on Cannon in the winter isn't casual and never will be. Casual approach to climbing on Cannon is asking for it to change your mind and quite possibly frostbite your toes and hands. my opinion or from the peanut gallery a peanut for you elephants to chew on.

A good description and by the way-Bouchard almost died on it sooooo...............

Thanks for the historical perspective Bradley. The real take away is that if you are a seasoned ice/alpine climber with good judgement (i.e. you are prepared to bail before getting in over your head), then don't let the WI5 rating scare you away from getting on this gem.

Finally got on this classic last weekend (Feb 11, 2012). We were the first ones on route and arrived at the parking lot at 6:00 am (about a half an hour before the arrival from some Bostonian blokes). Perfect conditions. The mixed crux I found to be a bit of a puzzle, but got through it after clipping the fixed nut and placing another stopper about 7 feet above that one. The chute on the second pitch I found very nice, and the final pitch beautiful. I hope to do it again soon.