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Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
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Big Papa 

5.12d

   

FA: Equipped by Brady Libby, FA byTim DeRoehn, Sept 2009
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12d [details]
Views: 141 page views

Submitted By: Jay Knower on Sep 20, 2009


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The crux of Big Papa.


Description 

Big Papa is a route that was hiding in plain sight until its first ascent this fall. It climbs the striking, overhanging crack just to the left of Banana Head in the middle of Sundown's Main Cliff.

Start by climbing up blocky rock, clip a bolt, and do a few face moves to gain the crack. The crack is very steep, angling, and offset. These three characteristics conspire to create a physical and gymnastic crack climb.

To finish, top out on a sloping ledge and clip a two bolt anchor.


Protection 

One bolt, #3 Camalot, and smaller cams.



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Crux of Big Papa

Crux of Big Papa


Comments on Big Papa Add Comment
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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 20, 2009

That looks and sounds so cool... nice work seeing it and on opening it up Tim... Nice work on the SA Jay, Thanks for posting it...

By nhclimber
From: Nottingham, NH
Sep 21, 2009

was this the route that brady outfitted?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 21, 2009

Yes, Brady cleaned the crack, placed the anchors, and placed the bolt at the start.

By nhclimber
From: Nottingham, NH
Sep 21, 2009

He and another friend of mine were telling me about it, sounds cool. Awesome job getting the second ascent. It sounded really techy and powerful.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 21, 2009

Thanks guys. It's a great route. Steep, well-protected cracks like this seem to be kind of rare in New Hampshire.