Pastryworks follows the blue line, breaking off of...
Description
Pastryworks climbs a line of four bolts just left of the mega-classic Yellow Matter Custard. Begin by climbing past the first two bolts on Yellow Matter, and traverse left to the first bolt of Pastryworks.
To help with rope drag and to keep the rope from running over a sharp corner, it's important to leave only the second bolt of Yellow Matter clipped, albeit with a very long sling. In order to do this from the ground, I stick clip both a short draw and a super-long draw onto the second bolt of Yellow Matter. After I clip the first bolt on Pastryworks, I reach back and unclip the short draw, leaving the super-long draw clipped.
Upon reaching the first bolt of Pastryworks, expect to find sustained, old-school crimping. Despite the fact that the route looks thin from the ground, the moves between crimps are big and physical, requiring a surprising amount of power. The crimps keep coming, and the bolts are spread out enough to give you the sense that you are really on lead.
Pastryworks has been forgotten over the years. Maybe it's because it looks so blank and tweaky from the ground (it isn't). Maybe it's because the Webster guide makes some vague reference to it being chipped (it wasn't). Maybe people just don't like this kind of climbing anymore (I do).
The route has been refurbished with new anchors and pruned tree limbs. There's no reason not to get on it.
Great write-up Jay. I thought this route was one of the best 13s in New England.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Aug 20, 2009
Thanks Peter. I agree with you, though before we did the pruning work, you couldn't really see the route from the ground. I think it has some of Sundown's best rock.
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