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Garfield Crag Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Garfield Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bow, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	TR Memorial Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1

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Elevation:	3,425 ft
GPS:	44.17711, -71.61404 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,305 total · 35/month
Shared By:	bradley white on Jul 23, 2009
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

On the left side of the cliff are moderate face climbs near the central left highest section is a area shaped like the bow of a ship. Right side of this are inclining chimney grooves and ceilings. Approximately 300ft at highest left central side. most of the crag is less than 200ft. South east facing spur on Garfield Mt. one of the seldom visited granite crags there is. It is illegal to do any drilling in wilderness designated areas and no fixed pitons.

Getting There

2021 Admin. NOTE: Yes, this same crag is located as a sub-area under Franconia Notch in the "summer rock climbs" and as a sub-area under the Kanc in "winter ice climbs". In winter the only logical approach seems to be via skis and/or snowshoes via Linclon Woods Trail to Franconia Brook Trail (although some have humped over the Mts via either Galehead trail or Garfield Trail !) while in summer the over-the-mts route from 302 seems more do-able, especially for any on-the-trail-at-dawn one-day attempts. R Hall 2/17/21

Brad's write up continues.....

Turn left at Thirteen Falls Campground and follow trail towards Mt. Lafayette. When trail crosses Franconia Brook, keep heading straight on an old logging road. When logging road terminates to being mostly forest head uphill for 1 mile heading slightly east. When slope gets steep your underneath it and keep going up. If slope doesn't get steep after much walking you missed and you'll have to try again. Not easy to find.

Shortest distance to car parked 6-7 miles. Longest distance to car 10 miles. Shortest distance is by Garfield Trail to the A.T. follow it east to trail leading down to 13 Falls. Don't go to Falls, instead cut traverse across slope until crag comes into view.

Another way is Gale Head Trail to Gale Head Hut and walk south and down past Hut to 13 Falls. Easiest and longest way: take Wilderness Trail to Franconia Brook Trail to 13 Falls Campground.

Day trips from 13 Falls Campground would be a good way to do multiple visits. I would ski into the area in the winter to ice climb and in 1987 I left gear out there over the winter near the cliff. That made climbing out there for me simpler. I just needed to camp. Don't light any fires outside of designated campgrounds because it's illegal to camp outside of designated camping areas.