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Recompense 

5.9

   

FA: John Turner
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 400 feet
Views: 3,086 page views

Submitted By: m-earle on Oct 31, 2006


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Nick Weinberg leading the last pitch.


Description 

A Cathedral Ledge classic, this route ascends the central buttress known as the prow. Follow the recompense/prow trail from the road, up to a ledge at the foot of the prow.

P1- 5.7- 180'- climb the obvious crack system heading slightly left to a good ledge with a two bolt anchor.

P2- 5.9- 100' - step left off the ledge and up to a birch tree. continue up the somwhat awkward chimney (crux) and set up an anchor below the final sweeping dihedral.

P3- 5.9- 100'- climb the curving dihedral, and up to a big ledge. It is possible to walk off from here, but there are some fun finger cracks off the ledge that will take you to the tourist overlook.


Protection 

A set of nuts (bomber nut placements on the last pitch) and cams. Bring long runners and cordelette for anchors. The route is fairly popular, so a helmet is advised.



Photos of Recompense Slideshow Add Photo
Brian working the laybacks up the last pitch of The Prow....

Brian working the laybacks up the last pitch of Th...

The first pitch of Recompense....

The first pitch of Recompense....

The best moves on the first pitch of Recompense....

The best moves on the first pitch of Recompense......

Pitch one again...

Pitch one again...

Brian reaching through the high traverse variation on pitch 3 of The Prow....

Brian reaching through the high traverse variation...

Looking up at the high traverse variation on pitch 3 of Recompense.... Follow the crack then move right at the flake....

Looking up at the high traverse variation on pitch...

The Recompense chimney looking down.... I recommend The Beast flake....

The Recompense chimney looking down.... I recommen...

Looking down The Beast flake....

Looking down The Beast flake....

1st Pitch

1st Pitch

Dead tree as some natural pro, why not?

Dead tree as some natural pro, why not?

Ladd stemming and running it out a bit up the classic 3rd pitch corner.

Ladd stemming and running it out a bit up the clas...

Scott Hadley on the final moves.

Scott Hadley on the final moves.

The Beast Flake and saddle

The Beast Flake and saddle

Upper Dihedral Awesomeness

Upper Dihedral Awesomeness

Looking up the wandering first pitch of Recompense

Looking up the wandering first pitch of Recompense...

Doug Sabetti on crux of last pitch of Recompense

Doug Sabetti on crux of last pitch of Recompense

Doug Sabetti placing gear at crux of P3, Recompense

Doug Sabetti placing gear at crux of P3, Recompens...

Local climber and photographer Anne Skidmore on the last pitch.

Local climber and photographer Anne Skidmore on th...

Local climber and photographer Anne Skidmore on the last pitch.

Local climber and photographer Anne Skidmore on th...


Comments on Recompense Add Comment
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By pointy
From: at large
Dec 19, 2006

Great route, and a great description. Wearing a helmet is a good idea here (especially on the weekend). A cam fell out of the sky while i was roping up for this. The last pitch can be toproped pretty easily.

By Northeastfreak
Aug 15, 2007

The flake that made the "high-traverse" is now gone... Sadly, I ripped it off a few weeks ago. As I committed to it, it grumbled, I stepped back left and with two-fingers, ripped it off the cliff. It was one of the most magnificent "trundles" I have ever whittnessed. It was a good thing that we were doing the route in the pooring rain, because it crossed the approach trail 4 times and nearly made it to the flats below the talus slope. We followed the craters and downed trees until we found it. We humped it back up and laid it to rest, on display, on the side of the trail. If you are familiar with the flake and keep your eyes open, you will see it.
I assure you I didn't pull "too hard" or place gear behind it. I've climbed that section nearly 40 times and have always been aware of its fragility.
It might still be climbable, but its going to be in the 5.12 range...
Tim