This one pitch classic follows a beautiful finger and hand crack exiting a triangle shaped hole in the rock. It is one of the best 5.9 finger/hand cracks that you will lay your hands on.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 11, 2007 rating: 5.9
I placed my ENTIRE standard rack (30 odd pieces) in this climb(on a bet), It sucks up gear and each placement is solid. Perfect lead for the trad leader looking to break into 5.9
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 11, 2007
Was it really a bet Ladd, or was it beacuse of "the fear?"
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 11, 2007 rating: 5.9
It did result in some substaintial pump, a lot of downclimbing to find placements and strange beta due to the lack of holds as I filled the crack with gear.
And "They died laughing" do to the ridiculous amount of gear that you can easily place in this crack. 5.9 doesn't come any safer!! Amazing to see someone outdid me. This was my first 5.9 lead, and I placed 28 pieces, mostly in the middle section. It is very popular, so be respectful and don't siege it as your first 5.9 lead on a Saturday morning....late in the day or mid-week will win you more friends.
i just did this yesterday being my first 5.9 trad lead! WICKED FUN! and i got a #12 nut booty out of it too! but i differ from the others in that i didnt place alot of gear... i think it was cuz i was having so much fun int the locks and jams that every once in a while i was like.... oh s**t i neet to place gear dont i! lol :) great climb!
Much agreed. We had never been to the North End, and decided to swing by on our way to the cars and climb the best "looking" routes without consulting the guidebook. We sure picked a winner! We had a blast climbing this at around 930pm.
I'd like to add a small tip about the top anchor: a pink tricam is extremely useful! Its lighter than carrying up another SLCD and there is a pocket that looks like it was designed for it. I joked to my partner that I would have anchored off the tricam alone (thought obviously, I didn't!)