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Routes in The Mordor Wall
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Armaggedon T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Azog T A3+ |
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Bongo Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 |
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Bridge of Khazad-Dûm, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cecile T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Difficulties be Damned T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Division of Labour T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Elevator Dance T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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French Connection T A3 |
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Grand Finale T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C2 R |
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Highway 61 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Life the Universe and Everything T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Lights in the Forest T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mines of Moria T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C2 |
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Mordor Wall, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2+ |
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Pendulum Route T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Reckoning, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown A4 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Joe Cote, John Porter, and Paul Ross - May 8, 1972 |
| Page Views: | 8,193 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | nhclimber on Sep 9, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
P1: (5.6 C1+) Boulder up a low slopping ledge via a large tree to the start of a shallow right facing corner, easily identified by one good bolt below two fixed pins. Easy aid up bolts and pins to a thin placement then up a nice corner to a 2 bolt anchor on the left side of a ledge, pass this and move right to another anchor next to a large flake.
P2: (C2F) Up the flake to a bolt ladder, some of these bad boys are from the FA and suck. But a couple were replaced 2 years ago. Follow the bolt ladder to a flake and this to a corner and the belay.
P3: (C2) The third pitch starts up the same crack system to a bolt on the left, clip this and lower way down and left to a large corner system which is easily climb up to you can clip some fixed heads and gain the ledge under the bridge. A great alternative that is the best way to go in the winter is straight up from the bolt following a great A2 crack and joins the regular route at the heads.
P4: (C1 Awkward) The Bridge. It's straight forward and you know exactly where to go, but it is gut busting awkward. Bring the big guns for this one. The crux is going through the flare into the roof proper. Follow the roof and round the corner to another set of bolted anchors.
P5: (5.6) Chimney up ledges and blocks to a dirty right leaning corner crack with a beautiful juggy arete next to it. Put gear in the corner when available, but climb on the clean arete when it becomes a viable option.
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