Moby Grape is the second most popular route on Cannon, behind the Whitney Gilman. It is a classic 5.8 wall climb, comparable to Nutcracker in Yosemite or to Guide's Wall in the Tetons. Until the final two pitches, the rock is as good as granite gets.
The Conn buttress borders the right side of the big wall section and Moby Grape climbs up the center of this buttress. Though the original first pitch climbed the left corner of the buttress, Reppy's Crack, a splitter in the truest sense of the word, has become the pitch of choice.
Pitch 1, (Reppy's Crack) 5.8: Climb the obvious splitter crack. This has been called the best hand crack in New Hampshire. Though more of a fist crack, Reppy's requires jamming skills because there are no face holds. Follow the crack to easier rock and climb to the end of your rope.
Pitch 2, (The Triangular Roof) 5.8: This is the technical crux of the route. Climb up to and over the prominent triangular roof using hand jams. This pitch ends at a good ledge.
Pitch 3: Move right around the corner on less than ideal rock. Belay near the base of the unmistakable flake.
Pitch 4, (The Finger of Fate) 5.8: Climb runout rock up to the flake. This flake looks dubiously connected to the cliff but is actually pretty solid. Either chimney up the left side of the flake or hand traverse (campus if you dare) along the right side. Belay on a scruffy ledge. It is possible to rappel from here with two ropes.
Pitch 5: The climbing degrades into classic Cannon rockaneering. Meander around short walls and aim for a belay near the left side of a huge fallen pillar.
Pitch 6, 5.8: Climb the awkward corner in the left side of the pillar to a roof. Exit the corner on the right and head to the top.
Descent: At the top of the cliff, head right toward the top of the now defunct Old Man. Follow the waterslide, a cemented water diversion apparatus (that obviously didn't work) downhill until a trail can be picked up. It is possible to head right at the bottom of the cliff to get back to the base, or head straight to go back to the parking lot.
Protection
Standard alpine rock rack. Reppy's Crack takes #3 and #3.5 Camalots. Two ropes are required for rappels. Don't forget your helmet--this is Cannon after all.
By Bob Packwood From: Longtucky, CO Jun 25, 2007 rating: 5.8
Led the whole thing yesterday and wow, what a wild climb! A little bit of everything on this one, along with good pro. Doubles in the #2-3 Camalot range are nice.
The first few pitches are sweet of course, but do the whole thing if you can, there are enjoyable moves all the way up, and the last 5.8 moves (P6 in route description) are wicked fun too. There are also some fun 5.5-ish cracks and a roof on the last pitch(es).
"alpine rock rack"? i was pleased to have a double set of cams, including blue aliens, and if you're not solid on straight-in hands and wide hands then youll want extra #2 and #3 camalots.
great route. every pitch was interesting and it was climbing all the way to the top. double ropes are great on this route.
Got on this one today after a couple years and man it was a blast! what a great route with memorable climbing on almost every pitch...
i had heard that there was a scramble off to the north after the Finger pitch... i had done the normal finish a couple times so i tryed the scramble today... got a little lost (and found a few nice pitches) but no easy scramble to the right... anyone know if it exists or if i was just sand bagged?
well :) today was my first experience of cannon and it was on this route... wow what an eye opening experience! WAY different than any trad i have done before and deffinately more heroing :) but all in all it was a blast :) despite how i may have sounded lee :) cant wait for my next cannon adventure.... and thats exactly what it was .... an adventure :)
By Adam Wilcox From: Candia, NH Aug 15, 2009 rating: 5.8
Climbed this yesterday and Reppy's is my new favorite pitch. I felt like a single #3 Camalot would have been sufficient and the #3.5/4 was only really useful below the Finger. There's lots of small constrictions in Reppy's where other gear can be used.
There was some fresh rockfall just left of Reppy's. Art Mooney told my partner that it came off the original start in the last few days and may have altered that pitch significantly.
Climbed the Grape yesterday. It is an amazing route, and Reppy's is possibly my favorite pitch led to date! MG is the gift that keeps on giving! Highly recommended.
After exiting the P6 roof, aka "The Cave"; instead of heading up right to finish, finish on Kurt's Corner. The base of its left-facing dihedral will be directly overhead. It is clearly visible to the left of the finish marked in the very nice topo photo.
Just do it! As my partner said to me yesterday at the top after finishing it, "Such a great finish lifts the entire quality of an already high quality climb." I heartily agreed!
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