New Yosemite Free Climbs Select Guidebook Almost Done - Call for Photos!

Yo Gang, I'm very close to releasing my new Yosemite Free Climbs Select book. My goal with this book was to include three to four times the content of the current Supertopo Free Climbs book. Several whole new cliffs have been added to what that book presented. Of course all of the free bigwall topos are in there too(Tommy Caldwell worked with me to revamp all of the El Cap topos). If you have inspiring photos of classic Yosemite Free Climbs, especially routes 5.10 or easier(several professional photags have signed on, so we'll have plenty of pics of the pros cranking the hard stuff), now is your chance to get published. Guidebooks are mostly a labor of love, so for just one or two pictures all I can offer is a your name in the acknowledgments and a few free books. This project has been so exciting to work on. The community support here in Yosemite has been overwhelmingly awesome. Here are some tidbits to get you stoked - Leah on possibly the best short multipitch 5.9 route, Absolutely Free, and a new topo for Sentinel Creek. Email me with any questions or with photos! Thank You! Erik Yosemitebigwall.com

Erik is currently the center of a veritable shit storm in the Valley (and SuperTopo) over his out of control retro-bolting. You should check into it yourself and contemplate whether this is the sort of thing you condone and want to support by buying any product from anyone so inclined.

New anchors added to Book of Revelations?

Erik Sloan’s Latest Victim – Ten Days After

To anyone thinking of buying this book when it comes out, I would highly recommend reading those threads. Sure some of it is a witch hunt and there's almost certainly more gray area than the threads would have you believe, but Erik has admitted to retroing climbs and adding hole count to established lines. Supertopo may not fully represent the YV climbing community, but there are enough people asking Erik to stop that I think this needs to be taken seriously. He has probably done some real good in the Valley with bolt replacement, but IMO has carried this a huge step too far and refuses to even consider that a large proportion of climbers don't approve.

Also note that there is another comprehensive YV guidebook in the works, written by Ed Harouni and Clint Cummins, I believe. Climbers can make their own decisions, but I will be waiting for their book and will not be buying Erik's new book. I would encourage others to do the same.

Erik,

I was wondering how this guidebook was put together. I seem to remember you saying that you don't really free-climb much, which seems like a liability when putting together a free-climbing guide book.

Where did the star ratings and rack recommendations come from? Is this what your friends/colleagues told you? Is it what you gathered from mountainproject or clint cummins website?

best,
matt

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the interest!

RE: How Did This Guidebook come about?: For sure any guidebook is a collaborative effort within a community, and this one is no different. I have been working with several local climbers(as well as photographers) to make the most accurate maps for all the climbing areas. The outpouring of support and beta has been inspiring(I recently co-wrote the new Yosemite Bigwalls: The Complete Guide book and that one was much more difficult because folks hadn't known about, or climbed, the majority of the routes). This book is to the popular routes. It will contain around 750 - 800 routes(list coming soon).

Also to be clear: this book came about because people are disappointed with the progress that Don Reid, Clint Cummins, Ed Hartouni, and Eric Gabel have made on their book to date. I run into people everyday who say 'oh yeah, they've been working on that for what, 10 years'. I making this Select book because climbers here, after seeing my bigwall book, asked me to put out a decent select book. Eric, Clint, and Ed(Don at least is a cogent fella)'s suggestion that this book is going to compete with theirs is ridiculous. There has always been a Select book, they've made it clear that they are not making a Select book. The current Select book was outdated when it was printed in 2003. So it's time for the good Yosemite Climbing beta!

I'm happy that my actions have lit the fire under Eric, Ed, Clint, and Don's butts. It's About Time! I'm excited to see their book as well. And as I"ve said to them all from the beginning, my goal is to work with them to get the best info possible out there.

Despite what a couple people are saying on this thread, I live near Yosemite and see tons of people in the Valley each day, who overwhelming say 'I can't wait to see this book', and 'How can I help'.

Thanks to those who have sent photos in - keep em coming!

If you have suggestions or beta for the book, please email me at erik@yosemitebigwall.com

Woot!
Erik

Healyje wrote:Erik is currently the center of a veritable shit storm in the Valley (and SuperTopo) over his out of control retro-bolting. You should check into it yourself and contemplate whether this is the sort of thing you condone and want to support by buying any product from anyone so inclined. New anchors added to Book of Revelations? Erik Sloan’s Latest Victim – Ten Days After

I wont be buying the book. I dont support retro-bolting routes and wont be giving my money to anyone that does.

Erik has openly acknowledged that he is altering other people's routes in the valley, while at the same time thumbing his nose at the very sizable portion of the community who is adamantly opposed to his actions.

Ed Hartouni and Clint Cummins are working towards their own book. Im waiting for that one and encourage others to do the same.

I'll buy both books whenever they come out. Life too short to get caught up in the storm.

Kevin Mokracek wrote:I'll buy both books whenever they come out. Life too short to get caught up in the storm.

Your life is short. So is mine.

Our resources and climbing are supposed to outlive us. Retrobolting sucks.
Bolt wars such worse, and that is what happens when someone is sanctified.

Allow me to quote the author:
Erik Sloan Nov 5, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
"I added that belay. It's for practice aid climbing. If you remove the bolts, I will add them back."

No thanks for this particular book. No thanks to the author. No thanks to the attitude.

Tony B wrote: Your life is short. So is mine. Our resources and climbing are supposed to outlive us.

Not to condone the OP, but we don't know what the future generations will see in the valley. IMO, most of the damage have already been done via the pin scars (& chipping) from the aid eras. It's telling the most vocal opposers are a bunch of old farts. To assume they are raising these oppositions to preserve the rock for the future generations would be a bit specious.

reboot wrote: Not to condone the OP, but we don't know what the future generations will see in the valley. IMO, most of the damage have already been done via the pin scars (& chipping) from the aid eras. It's telling the most vocal opposers are a bunch of old farts. To assume they are raising these oppositions to preserve the rock for the future generations would be a bit specious.

We used to do all kinds of things that we are educated not to do any more.

I'm OK with learning from mistakes and going on a more sustainable path.
Are you poo-pooing the older protesters, or are you saying that you are OK with adding mid-pitch anchors on classics or retro-bolting routes?
Are you condoning his proclamation of 'leave it how I changed it or I'll proceed with my bolt-war'?

As a person quite directly concerned with access, I find that attitude deplorable.

reboot wrote: Not to condone the OP, but we don't know what the future generations will see in the valley. IMO, most of the damage have already been done via the pin scars (& chipping) from the aid eras. It's telling the most vocal opposers are a bunch of old farts. To assume they are raising these oppositions to preserve the rock for the future generations would be a bit specious.

Your entire argument is specious. What future generations will see in the valley if folks like ES have their way is mid-pitch anchors and climbs which have been retrobolted down to a new lowest common denominator. ES is betting against the future generations, not on them.

Tony B wrote: Are you poo-pooing the older protesters, or are you saying that you are OK with adding mid-pitch anchors on classics or retro-bolting routes? Are you condoning his proclamation of 'leave it how I changed it or I'll proceed with my bolt-war'?

I did say "Not to condone the OP", but I'm also saying I don't believe the dialogue is all that honest either. It roughs the feather of the old generation primarily because it alters how they view the valley, not necessarily how the future generations may want the valley to be left at.

reboot wrote: I did say "Not to condone the OP", but I'm also saying I don't believe the dialogue is all that honest either. It roughs the feather of the old generation primarily because it alters how they view the valley, not necessarily how the future generations may want the valley to be left at.

PRESENTLY, the climbing community at large community seems largely set on not retrobolting, which is why you see it set as a rule in pretty much every FRHC I am aware of and why the ASCA won't do it.

Betting that:
A) the future generation will want something else
and that
B) an individual presently can predict that
should not be used to justify and enforced unilateral action.

If his vision is valid, than so is everybody else's.
Unilateral actions are the essence of a bolt war, and he seems to be dying to start one.

No thanks.

And to note: I'm not a terribly old generation and sure as shit never swung a hammer at rock other than to enlarge an existing hole to replace a rivet that fell out at a belay on the Hallucinogen Wall.

Mike. wrote: What does the age/experience of the objectors tell you?

What does the lack of interest on mp.com to this topic tells you?

I too will not be buying his book.

reboot wrote: What does the lack of interest on mp.com to this topic tells you?

That it hasn't gone viral and isn't posted as "new guidebook author retrobolts long standing yosemite climbs" so it isn't attracting the attention of crowds here.
To the contrary, it's a solicitation for pictures.

The subject got plenty of attention on supertopo. What does that interest tell you?

Erik,

Very psyched to hear you are doing another book! Bigwall book was super good. Will be looking out for it once it hits the bookshelf.

ps these people suck

Allow me to quote the author:
Erik Sloan Nov 5, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
"I added that belay. It's for practice aid climbing. If you remove the bolts, I will add them back."

Are you telling me in an area that has 1500 climbs on MP you cant find an area to go practice aid climbing?

+1 for No thanks. This guy has anointed himself as the king of Yosemite. Helping write the guidebook, meeting with Caldwell doesn't make you king.

I don't think you would have a mess on your hands ES if your attitude wasn't so....entitled. If your intention was to help aid climbers you wouldn't of said "If you remove the bolts, I will add them back." You know what you did. Own up to the mistake. Expanding on a select guidebook is needed for Yosemite. It will prob help distribute the crowds on the "classics". This doesn't justify poor etiquette on a limited resource. Judging by your post it seems like you are doing this guidebook for your glory. Which is fine but don't act like you are doing us a favor by saying one thing and doing something else.

Most guidebooks have a disclaimer at the beginning of etiquette. I am curious to read what you have in there.

The bottom line: not all routes are meant for all people. I would love to be able to climb certain routes. I even curse when I get one over my head and wish for a bolt. That is just the lizard brain talking. Pushing my mental and physical boundaries on the wall is one of the greatest gifts I can have from climbing. Knowing what I should climb and shouldn't is all part of the experience. It maybe the most valuable part.

I'll stick with MP and Supertopo.

Tony B wrote: The subject got plenty of attention on supertopo. What does that interest tell you?

Not much, plenty of stuff only draw interest on ST. And frankly, I'd rather they stay there.

Hope to see this thread pick up some steam.

ESloan(nan00k) is a very troubled, narcissistic individual. This is not an issue with his anchor replacement. This is an issue with retro-bolting and route alteration for his own personal gain. YV has already been tamed down alot compared to 15-20yrs ago. What he's currently doing amounts to vandalism.

Yes..ST can be a tedious place at times but if you care about your climbing area(or YV) its worth the time to read the threads. Understand that there are alot of well know members of the climbing community coming out of the wood-works condemning his actions. This could happen at your local crag and potentially get it shut down. He is a master of subterfuge and would have you believe the 'big' names are backing him. Not the case.

Do not support anything this guy has going on!!