New York Gully  5.8 WI3 M5- A1-2 Steep Snow

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Type:  Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.4 WI3 M4-5 A1- [details] FA:  Not sure Season:  Winter Submitted By:  Colin Bartholomew on Feb 29, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Parking MORE INFO >>> A Northwest Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. In addition, during the winter you can only park at the highest lot if you have an Alpental skiing tag on your car. You will have to park at a lower lot and walk up, if you don't have the tag. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a fun route for the experienced alpinist. It has assorted elements including mixed, ice and some aid for those who can't climb hard mixed. We did it in 4 long pitches with some simuling with a 70 meter rope. So 5-6 without simuling with a 60 meter rope. The first pitch starts at the obvious gully down from the notch above the gully. Ascend about 200 feet up the gully and ascend the obvious ramp to the left. Belay from the quasi-cave. Ascend up and left for one pitch. Then ascend up and slightly right. The rest of the route follows the obvious weaknesses until you get to a small headwall. This is called a 5.8 crack. I was able to free it with only two moves of aid off fixed gear. The climbing above this is somewhat technical but a relief after the difficult aid moves.

Location 

Find the phantom slide and ascend more or less upwards and slightly left. Bear mostly up and somewhat left. Ideally, go with someone who knows the approach or follow a skin track as much of the approach is done through thick trees. As the grade decreases, bear left towards the notch. From the obvious notch, descend probably 200 vertical feet and traverse to the first obvious gully. Ascend roughly 200 vertical feet to the left traverse.

Protection 

rack to 2-3 inches. knifeblades, 1-4 ice screws depending on conditions. No bolts. Some fixed pitons on the right places. Slings.

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A view from the route. Note- this is not the route...