New World Order
WI5- M5 PG13
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|Type: ||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 110'|
|Consensus: ||WI5- M5 [details]|
|FA: ||Greg Sievers, Ben Rosenberg|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Greg Sievers on Jan 22, 2007|
Rope marks NWO line.
A New Year's Day treat. This is the first route you come to following the steep ascent up from Glaier Gorge junction. Climb ramps to a large left-facing-dihedral that tapers into a chimney. You can stem or jam, but it seemed easiest to face left.
Pop up and right out of the chimney, and climb about 10' of ice to a squeeze up and left. A big cam might fit up into the roof/crack. I stepped left out onto the rock, then up thru the 12" ice runnel.
The farthest left established route. (Although there's lots more). It is about 75' left of the Ice Slab ??. It's marked by the obvious beard of ice hanging off the roof next to the chimney.
Full rock rack and 4 screws. A 70m rope allows for a single rope rap. But the scramble down if you use a 60m is very easy.
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