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Mike leading New Wave
This is the sport climb immediately left of Heathenistic Pursuit. Start behind a large boulder and make some techy moves up under a roof. Turn the roof at its right end and continue up some easier face climbing before firing the crux just below the anchors. The crux is somewhat beta intensive, but once you've got the sequence this is a sort of easy 11d (if there is such a thing!).
This can be easily toproped after climbing the first pitch of Heathenistic Pursuit.
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2011
I wouldn't call this easy 11d. Maybe if you are tall you can reach through both cruxes more easily but it will still stay on you. Also, the bolts aren't amazing but since most people toprope it anyways, you could also place a medium nut in a shallow slot up by the last bolt (extend with a shoulder) and be pretty confident that the top pro will hold if you blow that crux.
|By Ranger Matt|
From: Yosemite NP
Aug 18, 2011
There is a variation to the left (slightly easier), which stems up off the large rock in front of the wall. This avoids the brutal, thin crux down low by going straight up to the roof and travering to the right. There is a different bolt for this vartiation but is of suspect quality.
I found this to be more fun than the tweaky direct line.
Jan 6, 2012
FA: still undetermined
From: Petaluma California
Apr 7, 2012
A few of the bolts are bad. Three are spinners, and the last is rusted badly and a bit undermined behind.
|By Bryan G|
Aug 16, 2012
The last bolt (which protects the final crux) was replaced earlier this year. The rest of them are still sort of old and sketchy.