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New Wave is a small sunny cliff up towards the top of Rattlesnake Mountain. The rock on the left side is lighter in color, and more rich in Mica than the rest of Rumney. So, New Wave literally sparkles in the sun. This lighter rock is well featured and well bolted, making Sally's Alley (11c), Weevil Knevil (12a), and Roaring Silence (13b) some of Rumney's most enjoyable routes. Air and Pleasant Danger, a classic 5.8, is an adventurous, exposed line that follows the far left edge of the cliff. The rock on the right side of the cliff offers more fantastic climbing. Dark Star (13c/d), a crimpy technical face on black rock, is a favorite when dry. Ace of Spades, a blunt arete that climbs like sandstone, is one of Rumney's best and most technical 5.10's.
Follow the trail toward Orange Crush from the second parking lot. Where the trail goes left to Orange Crush, walk up and right. Follow cut steps in a log and a narrow trail up the hill to the left side of New Wave. The blunt arete at the head of the trail is Ace of Spades.
18 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in New Wave
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Wave:
Air and Pleasant Danger 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Smokestack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Sport
Black Dog Crack 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport
Ten of Spades 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch
Sam Spade 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Barking Spiders 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport
Salley's Alley 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Retrospade 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Weevil Knevil 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 60'
Vallee Daze 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 75'
Paradox 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Roaring Silence 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport
Dark Star 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Strict Scrutiny 5.13d 8b 31 X E8 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For New Wave
Smokestack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a NH : Rumney : New Wave
A wakeup call for sporty sport climbers I'm sure... You will find all kinds of moves on this route that are hard to find elsewhere at Rumney... Thought provoking chimneys,and cracks, even a little off-width technique will come in handy... Most of the bolts are close together but there are a couple that might make someone shaky if they are used to Rumney's close bolts...Start up the chimney, remember that using your feet well will help you conserve Energy for the strenuous moves at the top... As ...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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