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New Wave Wall

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Change in Luck S 
Holey Moley S 
Modern Times S 
New Wave Direct S 
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Tsunami S 
Wavey Gravy S 

New Wave Wall  


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Location: 32.36737, -110.71451 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,933
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: eMurdock on May 21, 2004
Forecast:
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Description 

The New Wave Wall is one of the many high quality sport cliffs at Windy point. It is different however in its consistently gently overhanging nature and an abundance of super high quality 5.12 climbs. The wall faces northwest and always has shade in the mornings. All older bolts and pins have been replaced with new bolts. All the routes demand stamina and strong fingers.

Getting There 

To reach New Wave Wall, park at the Windy Point Vista lot or at a pullout at mile 14.3 on the south side of the road. Head down the slope on the south side of the road toward the Hunchback (it is the tower with the kickass arete that is easily visible from the road). Before you get to the Hunchback, turn left and walk under the Wind Wall (the large wavey wall). When you near the end of the Wind Wall trend right and down the slope until you can scramble up to the base of the New Wall. It is recognizable by its gently overhanging face peppered with bolts. The approach should take 5 minutes. Alternate approaches are possible if you parked lower on the road and don't mind scrambling.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New Wave Wall:
Holey Moley   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   
Tsunami   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
New Wave Direct   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   
Browse More Classics in New Wave Wall

Featured Route For New Wave Wall
Classic rope & rock photo

Holey Moley 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : New Wave Wall
Holey Moley climbs through the obvious hole in the middle of the New Wave Wall and continues to the top of the formation. This is probably the easiest route on the New Wave Wall although it is one of the best. Climb small crimps to the hole. The start might be more difficult for shorter climbers. Climb past the hole on delicate moves past an optional tcu placement. Once on the ledge, continue on 5.9 climbing to the chains. Gets morning shade....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of New Wave Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down onto the New Wave Wall.
Looking down onto the New Wave Wall.
This is what is sitting on top of the new wave wal...
BETA PHOTO: This is what is sitting on top of the new wave wal...

Comments on New Wave Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark and Stacy Egan
Nov 16, 2008
On the route "Change In Luck" (New Wave Wall) there looks to be about 20 feet of run out from the last bolt on the overhanging face to the last bolt of "Skid Mark" below the shared chains. Is there a bolt for "Change In Luck" above the ledge that I just can't find? It looks like a big whipper if you miss the clip on the highest bolt. Maybe that is why the route name is what it is. It looks like it can be protected with gear but the guidebooks indicate it is a sport route.
By jbak
Nov 16, 2008
If the upper runout of C of L is bothering you, I think (it's been a LONG time) you can get a cam in up high to lessen the anxiety.
By Mark and Stacy Egan
Nov 18, 2008
Thanks Jbak. I did watch a climber on the route opt instead for down climbing to the top bolt on the overhanging face and get lowered off on a bail biner. He expressed, in colorful language, that it was unreasonably run out for a "Sport Route". Had I not seen him climb it, I would not think to carry gear either. The "Rock Climbing Arizona" guide indicates a bolt on the ledge. Once again, not all topos are accurate.
--Mark
By Alex Kirkpatrick
Nov 29, 2010
Hey does anyone know anything about the crack up the center of this wall as an all gear route? It seems like the most obivious and aesthetic line on the wall. I read something on here about it being done as a mixed route. Has it gone on all gear and if so whats the grade/risk factor? Thanks, Alex
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 29, 2010
Route used to go on gear and drilled pins. It would be a little spicy on gear alone.
By Justin Turner
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Sep 7, 2013
Left pair of tan Petzl belay gloves on the rocks near base of Holey Moley on Saturday, 9/7. Please contact Justin at 602-618-7883 if found. THX