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This climb starts off same start as Wonderstuff but traverse right on slopey rail over to second bolt, then straight up "bee-hive" looking rock (cruxy) to big moves on jugs. Best route at Cannibal.
start just right of Wonderstuff
Start of NWH
New Wave Hookers, great route!
Opening moves to a great route.
Poppin' a little dyno action
Ben going to second bolt
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 14, 2010
On 5/14/10, the LVCLC replaced the 3rd and last bolt on this route. The 3rd bolt was moved slightly up and left from its old position. This move was done with help from two folks who have been working the route and felt the new position was a good one. The final bolt was moved somewhat right to a better spot for the bolt, but still should be easily clipped off the jugs below. Both new bolts are 1/2" x 3.5 5-piece.
On 5/19/10, the LVCLC and the ASCA finished work on this route by equipping the anchors with mussy hooks.
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
Short but jam packed with action. Obvious moves. I'd recommend a stick clip if you have one. Otherwise, you can clip a low bolt from the ground, but it may not be high enough to provide real safety. When I did this route I clipped the low bolt, jugged up to the ledge, clipped the real first bolt, and came back down to start the route from the traverse with protection.