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Apr 17, 2013
CoR
Anyone see or hear about the new guidbook coming out? I picked up volume 1 at the Black Diamond swap from a guy in the parking lot. I believe there are to be four volumes alone for LCC. Just wondered if anyone had the official story of what and when. rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Apr 17, 2013
The route in it's entirety.
There's the one that you picked up, and then there's the one everyone is waiting for. I'd hold off on the other volumes, and wait for the real guidebook to hit shelves. Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
570 points
Apr 17, 2013
Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
Greg G wrote:
There's the one that you picked up, and then there's the one everyone is waiting for. I'd hold off on the other volumes, and wait for the real guidebook to hit shelves.


I just recently moved back to UT, so I'm a bit out of the loop, care to let us know when the real guidbook is supposed to hit shelves?
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
1,503 points
Apr 17, 2013
The route in it's entirety.
Supposedly sometime in the next 10 years, but that's pure speculation. Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
570 points
Apr 17, 2013
The release date on that book is kinda like the 5.9+ grade from the 60s. It means it could be 5.9 or absolutely anything above...

That being said, from what I understand the authors aren't sitting on their ass, they're rounding up info, adding more routes, getting details, etc etc... and will put out a book which will make you want to buy Volume 2-4 of the other guide to use as novelty toilet paper.
Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,713 points
Apr 17, 2013
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior
Does anyone know who the authors are? for the new book that is. Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Joined Aug 2, 2006
460 points
Apr 17, 2013
Nathan Smith, Andrew Burr and Tyler Phillips. Nathan Smith
From Salt Lake City
Joined Jun 26, 2006
19 points
Apr 17, 2013
The Voo
Nate Smith is legendary in these parts Reuben Cousin
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Jul 28, 2012
15 points
Apr 17, 2013
CoR
I thought it was Tony Calderone so now I am confused. My book has great pictures with routes/bolts/pins/belay stations overlayed nicely but many other details are lacking. And when the guy said there are 4 volumes for one canyon alone, well that brings a whole new meaning to marketing strategy. At that rate the entire Wasatch set will exceed my Encyclopedia Britannica volumes. Glad to see this mystery has been solved. rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Apr 17, 2013
avatar
Tony's books have 1 picture per route. Since, you know, it's far too complicated to put more than 1 route on a pic of a buttress/wall. Hence the multitude of volumes.

Personally I think they aren't very useful.
zoso
Joined Jun 3, 2007
505 points
Apr 17, 2013
Tony is making the 4 volume set.

Smith Burr and Phillips are making what I believe is a single book as something like wasatch granite so it will include a few areas aside from LCC such as bells, freggie and lone peak?

I believe the release date was spring 12, fall 12, spring 13, and last I heard was summer 13, but I am not that informed. I saw a few sample pages long time back when somebody came to talk about it with the guys at IME, and am pretty stoked for its release.
CareBear
From SLC, UT
Joined Jun 3, 2011
1 points
Apr 18, 2013
CoR
I find it somewhat ironic that no one has updated or published a Wasatch book in decades and now we have competing books (although a no show and one being sold out of the back of a pickup truck isn't much competition).

So how about it Nathan, care to give us a preliminary, won't hold you to it, but will complain if you don't make it; date?
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Apr 18, 2013
The rumour I heard is that a couple of guys in Colorado are getting their LCC guide ready for the printer.


There, that should get the local boys moving; worked for Maple.
JimG
Joined Jul 14, 2007
16 points
Apr 18, 2013
rging wrote:
I find it somewhat ironic that no one has updated or published a Wasatch book in decades and now we have competing books

Guidebooks take a lot of time, effort and money and generate very little revenue and a whole lot of complaints. I can't imagine why people aren't lining up to scramble all over the canyon trying to climb and accurately document thousands of lines only to be rewarded by online complaints about difficulties reaching Hell Cave
(or Dogwood) due to a 0.3 miles discrepancy in the mile marker description and the walking time to the crag...

That being said, two granite books (or 1 + 4) is odd. Update the Quartzite Bible already!
Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,713 points
Apr 18, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
rging wrote:
I find it somewhat ironic that no one has updated or published a Wasatch book in decades...


Last Ruckman(s) guide published in 1998 with a reprint in 2003?

And...still available and still hard to beat.

Looking forward to the effort from the lads. Take your time. No rush.

I still think Ben needs to do Ferguson...(!)
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Apr 18, 2013
Brian in SLC wrote:
I still think Ben needs to do Ferguson...(!)

FOOK YEAH!

Nathan, does the new book include Fergie?
Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,713 points


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