New Wall is probably the most popular climbing area on the greenbelt with most climbs in the 5.10-5.12 range. There are a couple 5.9s here and nearby.
Rock is bolted limestone. All routes are well protected. Best time to go is during the week as it's practically in town. Go to Reimers on the weekend. Shaded in the afternoon, but so, so very hot.
Spyglass: Go down Mopac until the Barton Skyway exit. Turn east and go to the end of that road. Get out of your car and hike down the chickenwire to the main trail. Hike south until the little fence that keeps the bikes out. Go a little past that and you're there.
By E Wydeven From: Austin, TX Feb 9, 2012 CONDITION REPORT
The Left side of New Wall is currently closed. There has been some shifting of rock with the last couple of rains, and it is expected that the routes left of Hysteria will fall off any day. Use Caution!