New Traditionalist  5.12b

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Type:  Trad, 90 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Eric Hörst, I think? Season:  some morning sun, afternoon shade Submitted By:  camhead on Sep 20, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Check for access at Roger's or Water Stone. MORE INFO >>> The access into South Nutall has been ill defined for years. I am not sure of the best way in at the present time. Check with local sources for the most current information. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The guidebook says of this line, "Seriously, it's an 80 foot fingercrack!" Although there is a bit of a chimney section, the description pretty much sums it up (and I think there's some sort of finger crack in the back of the chimney, so...).

The route starts right off with a sort of jump start to a jug, then some 5.10ish perfect fingers, to a squeeze chimney with hands and fingers in the back, and then the final 50 feet are an unrelenting crack with everything from good locks to tips locks to ringlocks, and one or two handjam rests. I thought that there were two distinct cruxes that were both hard for the grade.

Location 

about 10 minute walkdownstream from the Beckoning, and about 3 minute walk upstream from Fingercrack in White Corner.

Protection 

hands down to microstoppers. emphasis on blue and purple tcu size. There are bolted anchors about 8 feet shy of the top.