New Trad Rack
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Looking to slowly build a trad rack over here. I've got C4s in #0.3 - #3 and a full set of stoppers so far. I'm planning on picking up a set of tricams (they're cheap and seem to be very useful for setting anchors, etc). I know doubles will come into play down the line, but for now I'm just trying to get a good range of stuff to start in on some easier short stuff around me. I'm thinking of rounding out with some X4s for now, but wanted to get some input in X4s vs C3s. Anyone have any particular thoughts on this? Either way, probably good to get a full range of the X4s if I go that route? |
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I suggest you look at totem cams to fill out your rack with either their alien cam or the original totem cam |
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Personally I would avoid x4's and check out either metolius or totem cams |
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Double up your smalls with Mastercams, not X4's. I don't really like Mastercams larger than red (too floppy), but red will get you up to 0.75 C4 size. The difference in the height of the heads gives you good versatility when using both C4's and Mastercams (i.e. Mastercams will fit in some slots that X4 and C4 won't). Double up larger sizes (0.75 or 1 and up) with C4s |
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Also, Metolius offset nuts are awesome, depending where you climb. Great for places like Eldo, less useful for granite splitters. |
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I started with: |
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For a beginning trad climber, is it less imperative to have thin pro for tight spaces? Seems like a beginner trad climber would use a lot of 1"-3" pro... Please, correct me if I am way off base here guys.. |
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Personally, I'm a big fan of the X4's, though I also really like my Mastercams for small stuff as well. While the Mastercams do have a smaller head width than X4's, the difference is very slight (I just went and compared my MC #1 to the X4 0.2). The X4's offer a significantly larger range than the Mastercams though. The only downside to the X4's in my mind is the price. |
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Thanks for all the info, much appreciated! Sounds like a lot of different factors to consider in the decision. Are a lot of the gripes against the X4s just based on price? It does make sense, since they look to be significantly more expensive than the mastercams. Do they perform about the same, though? Andy - you mention that the mastercams fit a lot more options than the BD versions as well... |
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I prefer my C3's over my X4's. C3's are my favorite small cam. I've owned C3's, Aliens, Mastercams, X4's, Early Wild Country Tech Friends, and X4 offsets. |
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Alex M. Smith wrote:Thanks for all the info, much appreciated! Sounds like a lot of different factors to consider in the decision. Are a lot of the gripes against the X4s just based on price? It does make sense, since they look to be significantly more expensive than the mastercams. Do they perform about the same, though? Andy - you mention that the mastercams fit a lot more options than the BD versions as well... Either way, it sounds like sticking to 4 lobes (instead of 3 cam units) might be a good option for starting out. I'm likely going to start looking for deals floating around, can you expand on other reasons to choose between the options (besides price - in case a good deal comes up on the "more expensive" ones)? Also, any issue with mixing and matching brands of cams? Is it confusing to differentiate sizes between brands? Sorry for lack of knowledge on these questions... Thanks again!It's all personal preference, the x4 and mastercam are both great cams but they both have their cons. I said I'd avoid x4s because i dont think they are durable, I dont like a double axle in a small cam and I just think BD is kinda lame. I think most people love their x4s though.. And no issue mixing cam brands as long as you can remember the color combo |
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As I said I bought C4's big Powercams small. |
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C3s (0-2) and C4s (.5, .75, 1), matched with Metolius Master Cams (1-6). My #2 and #3 BD C4s are doubled, but I usually only carry 1 set of those sizes. A set of BD Stoppers, 4-13. Double pink and red tricams (gunks, baby). That's always been more than enough for me...well, I've had a couple occasions where I wish I had the extra set of #2 and #3 C4s. |
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I'd go with the Mastercams 0-3, they're less expensive, burly, and fit in about everything you need them to. |
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It's a little off from the "micro cams" you've been discussing but in response to your original question I would highly endorse a set of hexes. I know they get a lot of bad rap for their obnoxious "cowbell" sound but they are invaluable for me. they can do the jobs of all your other gear if need be. they can be passive like nuts and still active cam and torque like SLCDs and tricams. I have a set of BD hexes from size 1-7 and they make no more noise than a set of nuts. above that I use DMM "torque nuts" for the larger sizes and they are great. |
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avoid trango flex cams. Maybe some like them and I think they are cheaper than c4s but I find them harder to clean than units with a more rigid stem (such as bd). |
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Alex M. Smith wrote:Looking to slowly build a trad rack over here. I've got C4s in #0.3 - #3 and a full set of stoppers so far. I'm planning on picking up a set of tricams (they're cheap and seem to be very useful for setting anchors, etc). I know doubles will come into play down the line, but for now I'm just trying to get a good range of stuff to start in on some easier short stuff around me. I'm thinking of rounding out with some X4s for now, but wanted to get some input in X4s vs C3s. Anyone have any particular thoughts on this? Either way, probably good to get a full range of the X4s if I go that route? Thanks, -AlexClimbing friend Alex, You would need the large nuts or ovaries to steady your mind and be confident enough on bold gear trad flash. |
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If you rack different brand cams rack the on different sides totems on left BD on right |
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The Wild Countey Heliums are a nice companion to C4's. |
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Alex M. Smith wrote:can you expand on other reasons to choose between the options (besides price - in case a good deal comes up on the "more expensive" ones)?I can tell you what I like about the X4s, in order of importance to me are the large range (unmatched by other small cams), the flexible and (seemingly) durable stem that make it great for horizontals, and the longer body that eases some concern about getting it stuck with deeper placements. Not really sure what it is I like so much about my Mastercams (besides the price!), but when I need a super thin placement quickly, it's my go to. I've whipped more times on my 00 than any other piece of gear. I don't own any Aliens, but having climbed on them, I can tell you the softer heads give it some really nice bite in the rock. Having used Metolious TCUs and BD C3's, I'm just not as big of a fan of the 3-lobed units. They just don't seem as solid, but maybe that's just due to lack of experience. Alex M. Smith wrote:Also, any issue with mixing and matching brands of cams? Is it confusing to differentiate sizes between brands? Sorry for lack of knowledge on these questions... Thanks again!It's definitely something to consider, but shouldn't be your deciding factor, especially since you can mitigate the issue with good organization of your gear loops. Much more important is making sure you're comfortable with all your gear. And really, that's the main takeaway-- most of the gear is great, just a matter of personal preference. If you have friends with different cams, trying them out on actual routes will be far more valuable than anything you'll learn here. |
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1 You can find a lot of great lightly used cams here on MP |