I have just recently been getting back into climbing after about a 5 year hiatus, and would absolutely still consider myself new to the sport (or at least to leading). I still am not always comfortable leading sport, and I can realistically only onsite climbs in the 5.9 range at best. I have never lead trad before, but I used to follow it frequently and would be interested in learning soon. I have only lead sport 7 or 8 times recently, and despite my urge to jump right into trad I have a suspicion that would be unwise (and is probably where most injuries come from). I am looking for some advice on when/how to start, and if anyone in the Boulder area would like to gain a new apprentice of sorts for teaching trad/ice/and alpine techniques to. Thanks y'all.
Not sure what previous exp you have but start following someone with a trad rack. Cleaning helps learn what is bomber or not. Climb with multiple partners. Ask lots of questions. Be willing to offer rides or rope since you don't have the rack. Borrow a rack or swap leads and start leading 5.6. Once you feel confident in placing pro then start progressing in grades.
Getting good on the rock will translate to ice.
For ice, start TRing a lot. Borrow tools to see what you like.
Alpine. Read Mark Twights book. Understand what an action suit is. Find a mentor. Master the skills at the crag before moving to the alpine.
Gear. Look on ebay and mountainproject for the hard goods.
"Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment."
I would recommend finding someone to clean behind before you even consider starting trad leads.A mentor that is willing to teach you all the little tricks. You might have to be the mule hauling all the gear in and out, buy dinners and gas but it will pay off. Also do not make the mistake I made and follow behind someone at your max level. If your max is 5.9 as the second (or top rope) then clean on 5.6, or 5.7. This way you can be more concerned with proper placement rather than the climb. Take a moment to check the placement before you clean it. Remove it and then place it before you move on. Clean it with out taking if you can safely do this. Once you are more comfortable on sport lead start placing some gear between bolts if the route allows. This will also get you use to how you rack the gear on your harness or sling. And use to the extra weight. If you get a mentor have them clean the route to check the placement. Jamming gear in cracks is only half the battle. Be safe and patient. Oh and learn anchors, cleaning, rescue and multi pitch skills if trad is your goal. I just started this summer leading trad and it scares me just enough to make it fun but beware it is addictive
When I started climbing I had never climbed in a gym. I learned to climb outside with my brother via top roping, or following his routes. He would lead and I would clean his gear that helped me learn how to place gear. So when I did my first trad lead I picked a 5.6 slab in Pawtuckaway NH that I had climbed on tope rope a ton before. I knew I could climb it and just took my time made sure my gear was good, after my brother would clean it and let me know how my gear was. I just kept leading climbs I was comfortable on and it just progresses form there I suppose. Good Luck
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