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New to the North Bay

Original Post
someDuder · · Montreal, QC · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 20

I'll be staying in the North Bay for the next few months and would like to try to get lots of local day trips in, and a few bigger trips too. I don't really know anything about the area, and am wondering if there are places I should definitely check out, or things I should definitely not... I'm mainly into sport and trad from 9's - 11's, but am pretty down to do anything. Also wondering if there is a guide book worth getting, and if there are any cool independent gear shops. I saw something at REI for Bay Area climbs, but couldn't tell if it was useful enough to be worth it.

I also haven't met any climbers here yet, so If you are looking for a partner and want to climb shoot me a message!

Yer Gonna Die · · Cragville · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 175

hey i'm a complete noob (like never climbed), but i'm gonna try to cram as much climbing in and learn as quickly as possible if you wanted to make some trips. boulder, sport, trad, ice, whatever.

vincent L. · · Redwood City · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 560

What town are you in ?

SirTobyThe3rd M · · Salt Lake City · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 2,100

You have any days off during the week? I usually have Tuesdays off and ma be up for a trip to the Valley, Sugarloaf or something like that.

someDuder · · Montreal, QC · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 20

I'm in San Rafael. I have a super flexible schedule as I am currently looking for a job and/or grad studies. So Tuesdays would definitely work, except for tomorrow as I am working on the vehicle. I have a rope and a rack, but no ice gear, and not an extra few thousand to pick some up.. :P

I'd be happy to take out new climbers, but you should really probably borrow/rent a pair of shoes and try it out in a gym or something to make sure you're into it, as you will need at least a harness, belay device, shoes, and a bit of experience top roping before getting into sport and trad. But if you've got all that and are ready to rock, then ya man let's do it.

So I'm guessing from people's responses that Tahoe has the closest decent climbing? None of the peaks around the Bay worth playing on?

Thanks for getting back to me guys, and hopefully catch you up soon.

Brian Snider · · NorCal · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 732

I'm available on the weekends and I don't mind climbing around the bay. It's all rubbish compared to Yosemite but it's what I learned on and it's close and easy. Theres not a lot of quality trad lines but there is a good viriety of rock and nice nor cal views. If you want to clip some bolts at Castle Rock Ill give you the tour. There's also tons of low quality top roping around the hills and peaks to keep you entertained for the winter. I only lead 5.easy but don't mind following some harder stuff. I've got a rope and rack and vehicle that works most of the time. If the weather holds off I would be down this weekend.

SirTobyThe3rd M · · Salt Lake City · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 2,100

Sounds good, I have a rack too, and even a rope/chalk bag. What is your email?

Kevin · · California · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 0

I have lots of free time available here in the short term.

I have a rope, rock and ice rack, car, etc. in Berkeley. Give me a hollar.

Local trips are, at best, mediocre. Tahoe is just 3 hours away, the Valley similar.

A.Javi.Gecko · · San Diego, CA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 55

Once the spring semester at Berkeley rolls around, I'll be back in The Bay. I'm always looking for partners and have 4-day weekends this final semester. Mt. St. Helena is pretty good and not too far. Stuff on Mt Tam is REALLY close to San Rafael but that's mostly easy climbs. Haven't had a chance to get out to Mickey's yet but if we get some fine winter weather I'd love to check out those hard beach routes!

plantmandan · · Brighton, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 85

I would highly recommend Mount St. Helena. I climbed there a lot when I lived in Napa. It has good trad and sport routes including some multipitch. The total climbing experience there is fantastic. It's not exactly local to Marin County, but it's closer than the Sierras and climbable during winter.

Wine Country Rocks by Chris Summit is a good guidebook for the area.

Clockwork Orange · · California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 335

let me know if your interested in checking out the auburn cliffs, its about 1:45 maybe 2 hours from north bay, some really fun sport routes there!!

mountainproject.com/v/aubur…

check it out let me know i am always looking for someone to climb with.

TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160

We used to TR at a hilltop rock we called Split Rock on the Tiburon Peninsula, pretty easy stuff maybe 50', but a fun spot anyway. I've heard it was acquired by the Nature Conservancy, so I'm not sure about it's current access. As it's off the CA 101 Paradise Drive exit, it's really close to San Rafael. I'd look into it.

Brian Snider · · NorCal · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 732
SirTobyThe3rd wrote:Sounds good, I have a rack too, and even a rope/chalk bag. What is your email?
What do you need a chalk bag for it's rarely over 70 in the bay area.

Heading out to CRSP with a buddy on Sunday if it's dry enough. Hit me up if you want to tag along. 517.775.3390
Brian Snider · · NorCal · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 732
TWK wrote:We used to TR at a hilltop rock we called Split Rock on the Tiburon Peninsula, pretty easy stuff maybe 50', but a fun spot anyway. I've heard it was acquired by the Nature Conservancy, so I'm not sure about it's current access. As it's off the CA 101 Paradise Drive exit, it's really close to San Rafael. I'd look into it.
Split rock can be ok there is two nice crack to lead and all gear anchors, but it's baraley 30 feet high so it can get old fast. I would consider it a great beginner trad spot or for people easily amused. (Like me) Acces is no issue either.
Forthright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 110
TWK wrote:We used to TR at a hilltop rock we called Split Rock on the Tiburon Peninsula, pretty easy stuff maybe 50', but a fun spot anyway. I've heard it was acquired by the Nature Conservancy, so I'm not sure about it's current access. As it's off the CA 101 Paradise Drive exit, it's really close to San Rafael. I'd look into it.
lol split rock is no where close to 50', 30' on the higher parts. Still is plenty open though. Although outdoor researched managed a two pitch variation :P vimeo.com/45100189
TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160

Maybe it just seemed higher ;-)

someDuder · · Montreal, QC · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 20

Hehe, thanks for all the info guys!

I couldn't find that wine country book, but I got one called bay area rock, as it seemed like the most up to date.

Brian: I'm guessing CRSP is castle rock? If so, I'm down. I will give you a call tomorrow.

Brennen: Auburn cliffs looks pretty cool and I will definitely join you on an outting over there. Probably not for another couple weeks though. still settling in and waging regular battle with the DMV.

And I think I will go check out the local stuff anyways, just to get myself out for a half day if nothing else. If anyone wants to go mess around on these local 30 footers lemme know.

Mark Vogel · · Lander, WY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 35

Is Turtle Rock still there?

TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160
someDuder wrote:Probably not for another couple weeks though. still settling in and waging regular battle with the DMV.
Another couple weeks? F*ck that, you're dreaming.

I don't want to hijack this thread off-topic, but I moved away for 11 months, and moved back in July. I just managed to get my Tacoma registered last week after being completely f*cked over by DMV for almost 6 months. I originally bought the truck here, registered it here, it was manufactured here and it was out-of-state for less than a year,--and they still couldn't figure it out.

When I was back east, it took 20 minutes to register it, and 10 minutes to get my license. Here CA DMV tried to require a passport to get my license! I guess that's because I was the only middle-aged white guy who was both born here and a native English speaker to apply for a license--and this was after having been out-of-state for less than a year and they still had my old license in their system.

I can't decide which agency is more incompetent and a bigger waste of money: DMV or Fish and Game (which is spending money changing it's name to Fish and Wildlife).

Now, back on topic. Stay here til the Spring and enjoy both Lovers Leap and Yosemite.
someDuder · · Montreal, QC · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 20

it helps to start your application from under their desks...
bring the knee-bar pads :P

Brian Snider · · NorCal · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 732
NorCalNomad wrote: lol split rock is no where close to 50', 30' on the higher parts. Still is plenty open though. Although outdoor researched managed a two pitch variation :P vimeo.com/45100189
That's awesome, the first pitch was only two feet. It must have been a sit start. Not to mention he racked enough gear to climb that pitch 10 times.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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