|By dholte |
Jan 1, 2014
Random bits of Woodson advice, as well as outdoor advice in general...
-Acquire a bouldering pad
-I find Santee to be more beginner friendly, although the climbing is better at Woodson
-Woodson translates pretty poorly from the gym, its a lot of crack and slab, likely you've never climbed either, prepare to be humbled. There are some other "more boulder-y" problems, like Hamburger Crack - V0(www.mountainproject.com/v/hamburger-crack/105796404), The Cave - V2 (www.mountainproject.com/v/the-cave/105796678) or The Fake Eppulator - V6 (www.mountainproject.com/v/the-fake-eppulator/105846414) too, but you'll have to look around.
-i'm pretty sure people have bouldered everything at woodson, that being said, I'm a new-ish climber (1 year 8 mo), and there is a lot of stuff outside my comfort zone with just a bouldering pad, either they are 20+ ft or have nasty landings, just be aware of what you're getting on, and how to get off when you're done. That being said, many of the climbs are easy to top rope on a bolt or a few pieces of gear. A good example of a climb that gave me a rude awakening was Razor's edge (www.mountainproject.com/v/razors-edge/105792327), its a 5.10+, V0-1... but if you're used to gym climbing, be prepared for a tough layback with iffy feet and a ugly landing (I TR it; and I recently took a 11a gym climber there for the first time, who could not get up it)
-Compared to other places I've climbed, I don't think the woodson topos are that great (this is probably my favorite: www.mountainproject.com/v/mount-woodson/105791148 at the bottom), but i've taken several trips up there just to find certain climbs (such as rockwork orange). The San Diego County Climbing Guide is comprehensive but distances are a bit funny, and you'll probably get lost finding things. Use pictures from MP coupled with a guide and you'll be ok
-You're better off finding someone to go with, I'll probably make several trips out there in the coming months if you can't find anyone you know who to go with
After writing this, I think I make it sound bad... Thats not true at all, I'm just reflecting as I was recently a complete noob as well. The climbing there is excellent, you just have to go out and put in some time to get used to it compared to the gym.