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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 16, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
I would like to start doing some bouldering to boost my techniques, etc. and am wondering if anyone has a bouldering rating scale chart or list that equates to decimal route ratings?

PS I have only been able to find bouldering rating charts that START at 5.10 ratings - still above my skill at this time.

FLAG
By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Apr 16, 2013
Mathematical!
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(c...

The colored bands on the bouldering chart and the free climbing chart roughly, -roughly- equate to each other.

FLAG
By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Apr 16, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
Don't waste your time bouldering. The honeys dig this more.

FLAG
By BWIce
From Carlisle, PA
Apr 16, 2013
North face of long's.
The chart that you found is probably the correct one. The translation of "V" scale to Yosemite decimal is roughly V0 = 5.10a. Remember though that a 5.10a route can have 30 5.7 moves followed by one or two 10a moves to earn the 10a grade. Bouldering grades assume a relatively short sequence of harder moves - concentrating those "crux" moves in a short climb. At V0, it also means "less than", so if it is an easy boulder problem, it could be anything from 5.7-5.10a.

I also see that you are a NY climber, so it is also important to remember that V0 boulder problems are not Gunks 5.10's. I climb in the V6-7 range and have yet to lead a 10 at the Gunks. Like all grades in climbing, they're subjective and sometimes misleading. Get a pad and a guidebook and go see what you can do, that's the best way to figure out where you're starting out at.

FLAG
By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 16, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
OK thanks guys.

Yeah I climb not only the Gunks but the ADK's and Moss Island as well.
So there is a lot of stuff around actually here in NY.

FLAG
By Greg Kimble
From Colorado
Apr 16, 2013
That's the great thing about bouldering. There is minimal risk(if you are smart about it) for pushing your limits. You can take a shot at something way over your head and not risk much more than your pride. You'll be surprised what you can climb after working a problem. You might not be able to flash a V0 but go check out the moves and try to piece the sequence together. Next thing you know, you'll be working 3 and 4.

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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 17, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
OK thanks Guys.

That's why I have been climbing roped solo a lot with a Silent Partner. My days off doesn't always correspond with my climbing friends.
Sometimes it'd be nice not to have to mess with ropes, pro, gear, etc. and work work on problems and techniques instead.

FLAG
By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Apr 17, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on



Thank you for making me laugh the first time today.

FLAG
 
By Rajiv Ayyangar
From Portland, ME
Apr 18, 2013
Cut! Sadly my flash attempt met with dismal pump-f...
V to YDS correspondence
V to YDS correspondence


From this post: peripheralscrutiny.blogspot.co...

FLAG
By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 18, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
I guess I won't be doing much bouldering 'officially!' I am far from a 5.10 climber yet!

FLAG
By Jon Zucco
From Denver, CO
Apr 18, 2013
yaak crack Red Rock Canyon, NV
Ben Brotelho wrote:
Thank you for making me laugh the first time today.


holy crap dude. that vid only had like 300 views when I posted it a couple days ago... now over 300,000. mind = blown.

FLAG
By sanz
From Raleigh, NC
Apr 18, 2013
One of my first trad climbs, Ooga Chocka at Crowde...
Rajiv Ayyangar wrote:


Thats pretty cool

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By Miike
From MA/CT border
Apr 18, 2013
my foot
NYClimber wrote:
I guess I won't be doing much bouldering 'officially!' I am far from a 5.10 climber yet!


fuck the ratings, my 90 year old gramma can do an occasional 5.10 move, usually to beat one of her granchiles with a broom.

most n00bs can do V1 for like 5-10'

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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 19, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers ...
Fall Guy wrote:
fuck the ratings, my 90 year old gramma can do an occasional 5.10 move, usually to beat one of her granchiles with a broom. most n00bs can do V1 for like 5-10'


OK, coo. I am just gonna go out and boulder all kinds of stuff I see - formal or not to get better, gain experience and work on techniques, etc.

FLAG


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