New Testament 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Dean Fry, Larry Kemp, Feb. 1973 |
| Submitted By: | David Tvedt on May 1, 2006 |
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Crack on the left is New Testament, face to the ri...
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Description This right leaning crack has some awkward moves as it angles it's way up to the crux at the top finishing slot. Probably not a good route for someone just getting into leading 10a trad. Back in the 90's, a shaky climber fell at the crux, and ripped out enough of his gear to ground. Amazingly, he lived through it.
Location Just left of Barbecue The Pope and just right of the arete.
Protection Gear to 3". Rap anchors. Note: Rock quality is fine but gear may not hold as well due to a lot of surface irregularities inside the crack.
Gotta Love Crack! Even if its awkward and sharp :)
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| Comments on New Testament |
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 20, 2007
rating: 5.9+
| Great route. The crack is better suited to hexes than cams... so if you have some, bring 'em. |
By Skeates
Sep 20, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| I agree with the hexes over cams. The crack looks smaller than it is. Don't forget the medium hexes and take some time to put in a couple of bomber nuts before you pull up into the crux at the top (don't be tempted to use a micro-nut in the finger crack at the top - the last two people who did that and fell broke their leg and ankle respectively on a small ledge below the crux when there piece blew). A fun crack though, definitely worth doing! |
By rl23455
Jul 31, 2009
| The middle section can take a lot of 3" cams. |
By Shapp
Oct 28, 2009
| I don't understand the gear warning. Gear is ample and A1 on this pitch. |
By Phill T
Jun 18, 2012
| if karate crack is 10a, this is an 8+. not sustained, low angle, easy pro, slammer jams, face holds galore. a tiny bit of face climbing/laybacking at the top gets you to the chains. |
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| Straightforward gear... Cams to 3 BD. and nuts... If you are concerned about the gear up high, place two nuts one on top of another. |
By Bryan Hall
From: Portland, Oregon
Sep 17, 2012
| The crack is unique in that it opens up inside but you shouldn't be worried about pro or getting hurt on a fall. Cams protect it well and nuts could feel more secure. I took a 30 footer off this my first time up it and it was one of the softest falls I've ever taken. |
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