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 ADVANCED
The Christian Brothers
Select Route:
Am I Evil? S 
Asterisk, The T 
Attic Antics T 
Barbecue The Pope S 
Blasphemy S 
Blue Balls T 
Bowling Alley T 
Boy Prophet S 
Catherine Finds An Edge S 
Charlie's Chimney T 
Child's Play T 
Culture of Fear S 
Dancer S 
Double Trouble S 
Dreamin' S 
Earth Boys S 
El Sancho S 
Golgotha T 
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 
Heathen's Highway T,S 
Heresy S 
Hesitation Blues T 
Holy Road, The S 
Irreverence S 
Jete S 
left side of the Beard, The T 
Little Indian Princess S 
Lunatic To Love S 
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 
New Testament T 
Nightingale's on Vacation S 
Old Testament T 
Overnight Sensation S 
Panic Attack S 
Rawhide S 
Revelations S 
right side of the Beard, The T 
Ring of Fire S 
Rude Boys S 
Rude Femmes S 
Scarface S 
Self Preservation Variation T 
Shoes of the Fisherman T 
Smooth Boy S 
That First Step S 
Toy Blocks T 
Toys In The Attic T 
Unknown 10c S 
Via Dolorosa S 
Wartley's Revenge T 

New Testament 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dean Fry, Larry Kemp, Feb. 1973
Page Views: 2,270
Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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Crack on the left is New Testament, face to the ri...

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This right leaning crack has some awkward moves as it angles it's way up to the crux at the top finishing slot. Probably not a good route for someone just getting into leading 10a trad. Back in the 90's, a shaky climber fell at the crux, and ripped out enough of his gear to ground. Amazingly, he lived through it.

Location 

Just left of Barbecue The Pope and just right of the arete.

Protection 

Gear to 3". Rap anchors. Note: Rock quality is fine but gear may not hold as well due to a lot of surface irregularities inside the crack.


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Gotta Love Crack! Even if its awkward and sharp :)
Gotta Love Crack! Even if its awkward and sharp :)

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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 20, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route. The crack is better suited to hexes than cams... so if you have some, bring 'em.
By Skeates
Sep 20, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree with the hexes over cams. The crack looks smaller than it is. Don't forget the medium hexes and take some time to put in a couple of bomber nuts before you pull up into the crux at the top (don't be tempted to use a micro-nut in the finger crack at the top - the last two people who did that and fell broke their leg and ankle respectively on a small ledge below the crux when there piece blew). A fun crack though, definitely worth doing!
By rl23455
From: Portland, OR
Jul 31, 2009

The middle section can take a lot of 3" cams.
By Shapp
Oct 28, 2009

I don't understand the gear warning. Gear is ample and A1 on this pitch.
By Phill T
Jun 18, 2012

if karate crack is 10a, this is an 8+. not sustained, low angle, easy pro, slammer jams, face holds galore. a tiny bit of face climbing/laybacking at the top gets you to the chains.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Straightforward gear... Cams to 3 BD. and nuts... If you are concerned about the gear up high, place two nuts one on top of another.
By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Sep 17, 2012

The crack is unique in that it opens up inside but you shouldn't be worried about pro or getting hurt on a fall. Cams protect it well and nuts could feel more secure. I took a 30 footer off this my first time up it and it was one of the softest falls I've ever taken.