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Elevation: 6,435 ft
GPS: 35.51219, -108.86996
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 55,313 total · 251/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Mar 12, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

Description Suggest change

North facing, you get shade in the morning with sun in the afternoon, the "New Side" is the area with the longest climbs at mentmore. Around twenty climbs here ranging from 5.9 to 5.11c. See attached map photo for locating the climbs.

There is broken glass all over the crag!
Pay careful attention for glass when wearing sandals and thin sole shoes at the bottom of the crag. Most importantly watch for glass fragments lodged on edges midway on some routes. Some holds seem to always have glass shards on them.

Lizards, snakes, and spiders love Mentmore too! Depending on the season, keep an eye out for snakes as there are many deep hiding spots at all of the areas.

Getting There Suggest change

Short approach (as with all climbs at Mentmore).
For low clearance cars, the easiest option is to park in the lot and walk 5 minutes south to the obvious crags.

For higher clearance (preferably four-wheel drive) vehicles, it is quite easy to just drive to the wall of your choosing. Watch for deep ruts and mud pits in the roads depending on the season and recent weather!

60 Total Climbs

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Location: New Side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at New Side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Purchase Agreement
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Betty's Redemption
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 10
Happy Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
Ego Terrorists
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Ten 'Til Eight
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Unconstrained
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Cameron's Coming
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Dumping Beauty
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
Flakes Don't Fail Me Now
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 7
Crescent Moon
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
On the Edge
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Turquoise Classic Thunder
Trad, TR
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 6
Sink or Swim
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Docile Dragon
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Shattered
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Purchase Agreement (04) The Balcony
 13
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Betty's Redemption (04) The Balcony
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Happy Crack (03) Wall of Dreams
 10
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Ego Terrorists (04) The Balcony
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ten 'Til Eight (04) The Balcony
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Unconstrained (01) E Corridor Wall
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cameron's Coming (02) The Corridor
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Dumping Beauty (02) The Corridor
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Flakes Don't Fail Me Now (03) Wall of Dreams
 26
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Crescent Moon (03) Wall of Dreams
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport
On the Edge (03) Wall of Dreams
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Turquoise Classic Thunder (03) Wall of Dreams
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR
Sink or Swim (03) Wall of Dreams
 6
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Docile Dragon (02) The Corridor
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Shattered Monolith
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in New Side »

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