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By TJ Souther
From Brevard, NC
Dec 13, 2012

Hey guys, I'm looking for a pair of new climbing shoes that will be used primarily on slabby/friction climbs...any advice as to some good "sticky" shoe models I might check out?


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Dec 13, 2012

There are a lot of good shoes to choose from for smearing and I'm sure you'll get many recommendations.

Here's mine - the La Sportiva Katana Velcro.


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By Bang
From Charlottesville, VA
Dec 13, 2012
Thanks Hank Caylor!

Five-ten Grandstone or La Sportiva TC Pro


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Dec 13, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

I like any somewhat loose fitting soft shoe. I've had Mythos, Mocasyms, Voloce's, and TC pros (not my favorite for pure slab). Currently I have a couple pairs of older mythos. IMO about the only thing they are good for is slab climbing. I really think any soft slipper that fits your foot will do for slabbing. Stone/LK/LG season is here!


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Dec 13, 2012
El Chorro

TJ Souther wrote:
Hey guys, I'm looking for a pair of new climbing shoes that will be used primarily on slabby/friction climbs...any advice as to some good "sticky" shoe models I might check out?


I've worn out more than one pair of Acopas on NC granite. Any of their less aggressive models will do - they are so comfy and very sticky rubber. I think the Merlins were my favorite. But they went out of business when JB passed so they are hard to find.

After that, 5.10 rubber is great for the Glass, the Bald, etc. Hard wearing but still sticky. All depends on your feet though.


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By Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Dec 13, 2012

Ryan Williams wrote:
I've worn out more than one pair of Acopas ... But they went out of business when JB passed so they are hard to find.



The website seems active. Are you really sure they're out of business?


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Dec 13, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

any shoe that fits your foot and doesnt hurt...i regularly climb around these parts in my miuras, but use katana lace ups and in the past the red mocs

Go over to Looking Glass outfitters and Phil will get you squared away.


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By TJ Souther
From Brevard, NC
Dec 13, 2012

Thanks for all the recommendations, I'll swing by LGO next week and see what I can find!


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By thomas.w
From Denver, CO
Dec 13, 2012

I saw grandstones thrown out there and I can't say anything else other than that I would highly advise against them for slab. I do that stuff in anastazis but its hard to go wrong with shoes and rubber these days.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Dec 14, 2012
El Chorro

Allen Corneau wrote:
The website seems active. Are you really sure they're out of business?


I guess anything is possible. I know people tried to step in and keep things going but they weren't making any shoes last year when I tried to get more. If you want some it's worth asking around. Supertopo is probably the best place to get info.


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By Jeremy Hand
Dec 14, 2012
slopey

Acopa is definitely out of business, I've tried all of their contacts, all of which have been disconnected or their services cancelled. Sad day


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 14, 2012
...

Boreal Aces, Boreal Ballet Golds...


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