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New Scarpa Shoes
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By DoesNotCare
From Heaven
Feb 15, 2013
Are you Chicken, or fishy?

www.scarpa.com/scarpa/products/CLIMBING/CLIMBING-ROCK_CLIMBI>>>

Force X

Comes in a 47 & 48!!! I'm thinking a good all day slab/crack shoe???

Any of you shop monkeys try these yet?

The new Instinct VS looks RAD, but they only go up to a 45, which is like a 44 in sportiva.

www.scarpa.com/scarpa/products/CLIMBING/CLIMBING-ROCK_CLIMBI>>>


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By Paul-B
Mar 1, 2013
Flakes of Wrath

I'm also sitting in the 46-47 range. Frustrating how few aggressive shoes are made in this range. I think Bent Gate has the Force X in stock in a 46, I am hoping to go try it in the next week.


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By DoesNotCare
From Heaven
Mar 1, 2013
Are you Chicken, or fishy?

I think the Force X is a flat shoe, for an aggressive shoe I like the solutions and testarossa in a 45.5


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By Paul-B
Mar 1, 2013
Flakes of Wrath

Thats accurate, I was referring to your comments about the Instinct, should've been more specific


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By DoesNotCare
From Heaven
Mar 1, 2013
Are you Chicken, or fishy?

I just bought a used pair of Sportiva Venoms, I thought they would be my plastic pulling shoe, but I've been loving them on steep boulders around here. Something about unlined leather. They suck balls on small-techy stuff though.


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By Dustin Drake
Mar 1, 2013

Any input on the stiffness of the Force X? I currently use the Scarpa Techno's as my all day shoe but they have been discontinued and my current pair is pretty bagged out. I'd love to give the Force X a shot if the shoe is atleast reasonably stiff.


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By Dana Bartlett
From CT
Mar 1, 2013

These seem to be the replacement for the Scarpa Force. I wonder what the difference is; it's not mentioned on the Scarpa website.


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By DoesNotCare
From Heaven
Mar 1, 2013
Are you Chicken, or fishy?

This. Is the most info I've found about it: www.tcaclimbingshop.com/scarpa-force-x.html

I tried to contact scarpa but didn't hear back. Scarpa North America sure does a lousy job with advertising and public awareness considering the shoes are great.


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Apr 18, 2013
portrait <br />

Pulled mine out of the box yesterday...literally 30 minutes before heading out to the local crag. First impressions are these:
This is an extremely well built shoe. Totally lined throughout..including the heal cup. A generously padded tongue keeps the top of the foot protected and comfortable, velcro (hook and loop) system (opposing straps) is easy on easy off. I am not a fan of the xs edge rubber, but even on the steep slab that I tested them on yesterday, they seemed to hold quite well on small depressions, nubbins and thin cracks. They smeared quite a bit better than I expected...a happy bonus for sure. They also held an edge quite nicely, again...much better than anticipated. I got these shoes for all day guiding and long routes..I needed something comfortable but not so big and sloppy that they were useless to climb in. I have found that these shoes do a nice job bridging the gap and are extremely comfortable right out of the box. I did size these shoes up considerably from my Instincts. The instincts are a 44.5 and I went up a full size to a 45.5 and am psyched. I probably could have gotten away with a 45, but at close to 50 years old...why? lol. My dogs have suffered enough...(think 80's). Toe rand is good and has nice coverage. These are not a real technical shoe by any stretch and probably not a great choice for steep overhanging sport or bouldering, and they were a bit painful in the cracks (more like a slipper or even an Anasazi/Galileo. Despite the flat last and stiffer rubber the forefoot was pinched in the fist to hand jamb wide cracks.

So...first impressions are very good. I put 6 pitches under these puppies..starting at 5.8+ to 5.10 and never once reached for the velcro tabs or ibuprofin!! These would be a great beginner to intermediate shoe, but you guys in the higher number range may want to consider this shoe for those moderate all day outings and long routes (I am thinking Winds, etc...). More to follow as I start to break these in more.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 18, 2013
...

Scarpa makes nice shoes.


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By DoesNotCare
From Heaven
Apr 18, 2013
Are you Chicken, or fishy?

Chris,

Thanks for the update. I wish I could afford a pair of the Force X and a pair of the Tenaya Masai to try both out. I think I'm leaning towards the Masai due to a recent review in one of the mags that tested out quite a few of these new all-day comfort shoes. It is supposed to be comfy but still performs well in the higher numbers. We'll see though.

I have the previous version of the force in a tight fit, they were great shoes, I thought, they felt like a more comfortable but slightly less performance oriented version of the Anasazi Velcro.

I really like the toe box on the forces, compared to the much sharper Miura which shoves my second toe into my big toe in a way that causes infected ingrown toenails if I only climb in the Miura. I also like that they sell the Force X in a 47 & 48!


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Apr 18, 2013
portrait <br />

Hey Skitch!!

Absolutely. I am going to take some pics next time out and do a more thorough review...was having too much fun yesterday climbing after work in 60 degree weather, warm sun and no bugs!!

Would you do me a favor and let me know what you think of the Masai's? I have heard great things about the Tenayas. I got these on a Promo and couldn't pass them up. I am happy that I did. I love my instincts and these will be a close second.


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By Valerie Bachinsky
From West Sand Lake, NY
Apr 20, 2013
Roger's Rock, Lake George, NY

Sad to hear Scarpa won't be making the Techno anymore. Luckily I bought up 4 pairs last year while Sierra Trading Post was having a a crazy cheap sale.

Speaking of new Scarpa shoes...has anyone tried the new Tech Ascents yet and can offer an opinon on them? I have a bad ankle and a higher cut approach shoe seems like a dream-come-true for me.

www.scarpa.com/scarpa/products/CLIMBING/CLIMBING-APPROACH/p_>>>


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By Chris Graham
From Bartlett, NH
Apr 20, 2013
portrait <br />

Valerie Bachinsky wrote:
Sad to hear Scarpa won't be making the Techno anymore. Luckily I bought up 4 pairs last year while Sierra Trading Post was having a a crazy cheap sale. Speaking of new Scarpa shoes...has anyone tried the new Tech Ascents yet and can offer an opinon on them? I have a bad ankle and a higher cut approach shoe seems like a dream-come-true for me. www.scarpa.com/scarpa/products/CLIMBING/CLIMBING-APPROACH/p_>>>


Technos were a great trad shoe. Not sure why they didn't catch on?


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 21, 2013
...

It's about the ALL MIGHTY BUCK!

Shoe companies are well aware of when they have a winner. But then a competitor comes along and they're sort of forced to make a move or get left behind.

Changing them up as often as they do keeps the $$$ flowing in and people mistakenly THINK and BELIEVE that "NEW" is ALWAYS, better.

There have been MANY shoes made and no longer in production, that perform just as good as any "NEW" shoe out there.


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Apr 21, 2013
Cleo's Needle

Locker wrote:
It's about the ALL MIGHTY BUCK! Shoe companies are well aware of when they have a winner. But then a competitor comes along and they're sort of forced to make a move or get left behind. Changing them up as often as they do keeps the $$$ flowing in and people mistakenly THINK and BELIEVE that "NEW" is ALWAYS, better. There have been MANY shoes made and no longer in production, that perform just as good as any "NEW" shoe out there.


And then there are those people who think old is always better. Good thing there are resolers, right?


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 21, 2013
...

"And then there are those people who think old is always better"


Equally as TRUE!


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By S. Neoh
Apr 21, 2013

Yes, new products give both the top and bottom lines a boost. But the true classics have very long lives; Mythos, Miura, Testarossa, Moccasym, Anasazi Lace. For many years, I held Miura Lace as the gold standard. Today I am not so sure. I have both the Katana Lace and Scarpa Vapor V and I can say both are just that tiny better for me than the Miura Lace. And people tell me the Scarpa Instinct (Lace) is even better than the Vapor V.
Once in a while I still pull out my Sportiva Super X (the first popular Velcro shoe from the early '90's) to boulder for fun and I can say for sure that it is not as good as a number of modern shoes. Toe-down was a fantastic improvement, a feature than the Super X lack.


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