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new Rock & Ice (*Jake Jones*)
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By Russ Keane
Jan 10, 2014
Where's Waldo?

Hey Jake Jones,

Saw your published comment in the new Rock & Ice. Good work! You definitely set the record straight.

Shout out for multimedia bad-ass-ness!


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By Zappatista
Jan 12, 2014
Book me, officer.

Dat Nega Cray


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jan 13, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

I just wanted a free rope bag.


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By The Phoenix
Jan 13, 2014
The Phoenix

post it up!


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By David Barbour
From Longmont, CO
Jan 14, 2014

The Phoenix wrote:
post it up!


what he said


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jan 14, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Link.

Page 10 I think. Opening letter in the "Letters" section.

What was actually posted as a letter is an abridged version of what I sent.

Here is what I originally sent to R&I:

Man, is this what climbing publications have become? This isn't prolific battles of ethics atop a Himalayan mountain between Sherpas and top level alpinists. Nor is it the development of a new area, or a ground-breaking ascent establishing yet another "hardest climb in the world", or even the slighly verbose musings of an old crusty hardman describing how he managed to stay alive over the years.

Don't get me wrong. I love Andrew Bisharat's pungent style of writing, and it is usually very poignant as well. Even in his TNB Fear and Posting, the writing is still quite good, but the topic is utterly without merit or substance, or at least should be. Three pages rehashing a thread from Supertopo and Mountain Project? Honestly, if I wanted to review that nonsense (and sometimes I do), I would just go there and read it. I don't read Rock and Ice- scratch that. I don't subscribe to Rock and Ice to have a very good writer and climber tell me the pitfalls of Internet forums. Your publication is above that, to put it bluntly. Perhaps if JL himself had not contributed to the verbal melee, this may not have been deemed printworthy. That's just speculation on my part, however.

Climbers new to the sport and veterans alike get bashed consistently online. The nature of the anonymity in climbing forums lends itself to that kind of behavior. This is nothing new. This is certainly nothing newsworthy.

I gotta say guys and gals that if this is the best you can muster, given everything that's going on in the climbing world all over the globe at any given time, I will be a subscriber no more.

Sincerely from an avid and devoted reader,

Jake Jones


It's worth noting that even though I was bashing one of their articles, they were Johnny-on-the-spot with sending my rope bag- a prize for having the leading letter in an issue.


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By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jan 14, 2014
Stoked...

Awesome letter Jake!


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By The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Jan 14, 2014
And then you throw for a Gaston, like seriously guys. I onsighted the shit out of Levi's Stadium

Jake Jones wrote:
I just wanted a free rope bag.


I hope it was a nice one.


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By Russ Keane
Jan 14, 2014
Where's Waldo?

"I don't subscribe to Rock and Ice to have a very good writer and climber tell me the pitfalls of Internet forums."

Curious to know the back story. The reason you wrote in. Feel like posting that link for lazy-me?


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jan 14, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

This is the route about which there was so much commotion- view comments here:
Archangel

This is the MP thread discussing among other things, the comments on the route page: Archangel thread

This is the article rehashing the threads in MP and ST and the comments on MP's route page: Page 26 R&I digital edition 214

Happy reading.


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By doligo
Jan 14, 2014
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style

Nice job, Jake! This has been one of my major complaints about print media - they are all lazy. There is no value added information in that piece except for the author's tongue in cheek POV. Everyone could be a pundit, there are no reporters and journalists any more. The very least he could've done is go climb the route, if could not interview CW or TB personally.


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By MojoMonkey
Jan 14, 2014

Looking forward to seeing this thread summarized in next month's issue


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By Russ Keane
Jan 14, 2014
Where's Waldo?

Interesting. Quite a controversy.

I like how the author of the R&I article calls internet-posting about FA ethics "a complete waste of time". Maybe so, but it gave him something to write about for his magazine!! Also the forums are a great way for the community to work out its problems. I thought it was interesting how many people chimed in on the original Archangel thread. I mean, even John Long was getting toasted.


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Jan 14, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

MojoMonkey wrote:
Looking forward to seeing this thread summarized in next month's issue


Hahaha. One can never have too many free rope bags.

doligo wrote:
The very least he could've done is go climb the route, if could not interview CW or TB personally.


Agreed. And even if it had just been a one-pager, I probably wouldn't have felt compelled to write them. But three pages?

Russ Keane wrote:
Also the forums are a great way for the community to work out its problems.


Idk about that, but it sure does help the work day fly by.


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By Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Jan 14, 2014
onsight soloing Atman

In his explanation of the Bachar Yerian, Bisharat says the route is "just less than vertical" making it sound like a steep slab route. The headwall on the first pitch is dead nuts vert and the brain scrambler second pitch is a degree or two past vertical. The angle eases on the last few pitches.


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By Zappatista
Jan 14, 2014
Book me, officer.

Bisharat can write his ass off, but his defense of chipping, general fanboy gushing over 'rock starz', and occasional sound-of-his-own-voice content in lieu of interviews and firsthand experience can be a buzzkill. If you're lurking Drew, hear me now and believe me later: you got the goods, but you can do better, Jake had a point.

Now that I think about it, you and Weidner (by my estimation a sportf*g extrordinaire, based on a handful of routes and articles of his I've experienced) pretty much made the same ego-fueled mistake: putting more of yourselves into the project than considering what was really meaningful. If Weidner had bothered making a couple phone calls, the story would have been nothing but good news, an amicable upgrade of a forgotten line with some merit. Instead he snubbed tradition and the first ascentionist, once again making clear the lack of ...well, *class* most hardcore trades associate with band-aid harnesses and eating disorders types. If you had sat down with the first ascentionist over appletinis, wouldn't your article have a lot more to say that wasn't somewhat, er, forum-worthy, if you will?

That's just my feeling. I'm a lifelong reader, and I think you have potential to be in Long's class someday, but you have to have something with writing about to pit your honed wordsmith ing skills against.


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