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Jan 10, 2014
Where's Waldo?
Hey Jake Jones,

Saw your published comment in the new Rock & Ice. Good work! You definitely set the record straight.

Shout out for multimedia bad-ass-ness!
Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
210 points
Administrator
Jan 13, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
I just wanted a free rope bag. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,009 points
Jan 13, 2014
The Phoenix
post it up! The Phoenix
Joined Apr 23, 2013
114 points
Jan 14, 2014
The Phoenix wrote:
post it up!


what he said
David Barbour
From Denver
Joined Apr 4, 2011
231 points
Administrator
Jan 14, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Link.

Page 10 I think. Opening letter in the "Letters" section.

What was actually posted as a letter is an abridged version of what I sent.

Here is what I originally sent to R&I:

Man, is this what climbing publications have become? This isn't prolific battles of ethics atop a Himalayan mountain between Sherpas and top level alpinists. Nor is it the development of a new area, or a ground-breaking ascent establishing yet another "hardest climb in the world", or even the slighly verbose musings of an old crusty hardman describing how he managed to stay alive over the years.

Don't get me wrong. I love Andrew Bisharat's pungent style of writing, and it is usually very poignant as well. Even in his TNB Fear and Posting, the writing is still quite good, but the topic is utterly without merit or substance, or at least should be. Three pages rehashing a thread from Supertopo and Mountain Project? Honestly, if I wanted to review that nonsense (and sometimes I do), I would just go there and read it. I don't read Rock and Ice- scratch that. I don't subscribe to Rock and Ice to have a very good writer and climber tell me the pitfalls of Internet forums. Your publication is above that, to put it bluntly. Perhaps if JL himself had not contributed to the verbal melee, this may not have been deemed printworthy. That's just speculation on my part, however.

Climbers new to the sport and veterans alike get bashed consistently online. The nature of the anonymity in climbing forums lends itself to that kind of behavior. This is nothing new. This is certainly nothing newsworthy.

I gotta say guys and gals that if this is the best you can muster, given everything that's going on in the climbing world all over the globe at any given time, I will be a subscriber no more.

Sincerely from an avid and devoted reader,

Jake Jones


It's worth noting that even though I was bashing one of their articles, they were Johnny-on-the-spot with sending my rope bag- a prize for having the leading letter in an issue.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,009 points
Administrator
Jan 14, 2014
A Very Not Snowy Christmas...
Awesome letter Jake! Morgan Patterson
Joined Oct 13, 2009
8,420 points
Jan 14, 2014
swagging
Jake Jones wrote:
I just wanted a free rope bag.


I hope it was a nice one.
The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Joined Jun 21, 2013
263 points
Jan 14, 2014
Where's Waldo?
"I don't subscribe to Rock and Ice to have a very good writer and climber tell me the pitfalls of Internet forums."

Curious to know the back story. The reason you wrote in. Feel like posting that link for lazy-me?
Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
210 points
Administrator
Jan 14, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
This is the route about which there was so much commotion- view comments here:
Archangel

This is the MP thread discussing among other things, the comments on the route page: Archangel thread

This is the article rehashing the threads in MP and ST and the comments on MP's route page: Page 26 R&I digital edition 214

Happy reading.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,009 points
Jan 14, 2014
Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
Nice job, Jake! This has been one of my major complaints about print media - they are all lazy. There is no value added information in that piece except for the author's tongue in cheek POV. Everyone could be a pundit, there are no reporters and journalists any more. The very least he could've done is go climb the route, if could not interview CW or TB personally. doligo
Joined Sep 26, 2008
408 points
Jan 14, 2014
Looking forward to seeing this thread summarized in next month's issue MojoMonkey
Joined Jan 29, 2009
65 points
Jan 14, 2014
Where's Waldo?
Interesting. Quite a controversy.

I like how the author of the R&I article calls internet-posting about FA ethics "a complete waste of time". Maybe so, but it gave him something to write about for his magazine!! Also the forums are a great way for the community to work out its problems. I thought it was interesting how many people chimed in on the original Archangel thread. I mean, even John Long was getting toasted.
Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
210 points
Administrator
Jan 14, 2014
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
MojoMonkey wrote:
Looking forward to seeing this thread summarized in next month's issue


Hahaha. One can never have too many free rope bags.

doligo wrote:
The very least he could've done is go climb the route, if could not interview CW or TB personally.


Agreed. And even if it had just been a one-pager, I probably wouldn't have felt compelled to write them. But three pages?

Russ Keane wrote:
Also the forums are a great way for the community to work out its problems.


Idk about that, but it sure does help the work day fly by.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,009 points
Jan 14, 2014
Doubleissima free solo
In his explanation of the Bachar Yerian, Bisharat says the route is "just less than vertical" making it sound like a steep slab route. The headwall on the first pitch is dead nuts vert and the brain scrambler second pitch is a degree or two past vertical. The angle eases on the last few pitches. Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Joined Apr 15, 2009
368 points


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