New Road  5.11a/b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Chris Beh on Aug 10, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

The 1st pitch of New Test Of Men can be linked with the 2nd pitch Road To Emmaus, as one pitch. It makes for a pretty fun, long pitch and a good warm up for the crag.

A couple of fingery mid 5.11 moves start the route, but then you get plenty of big holds for the rest of the way. The green, double overhang at the top is easy 5.11 and very, very fun.

Don't clip the belay bolts as you go by the anchor at the top of the 1st pitch. Take 16 draws.

A 70m rope will lower to the ground from the top. I think a 60m might work for the lower, too, but I haven't tried it.

Protection 

14 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.