Climb starts immediatly left of right facing arete and J.Y.D.
Technical and interesting moves and protection denote the route's lower half while the upper half's mini-roof gives this climb its 3rd star and its + rating
Route lies right of Team Jesus and left of JYD on gigantic flake (50' by 25' by 80')
Technical and tricky pro in sections, bring a #5 camalot if you want pro for the last 5 feet.
Patrick leading New River Gunks During the 2010 Ne...
New River Gunks (5.7+). New River Gorge, WV. Cruis...
Mike making the reachy crux move
BETA PHOTO: New River Gunks
Patrick closing in on the Gunky roof crack above.
|Comments on New River Gunks
|By Matt Caldwell|
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Watch out for the wasps!
From: Raleigh, NC
May 6, 2013
Not at all PG13. There are a couple of placements you don't want to miss but it's all there. You also don't need a big cam to protect the offwidth section at the top.
However, the OP's intention of keeping brand-new leaders off this route is probably wise. Despite the grade it would not be a good first lead.