By camhead Jul 29, 2012
| Well, there are actually very few gear 5.12s at the BRG that will prepare you for the Valley in terms of either pure jamming technique or subtle granite smearing, but here's a good list, from what I think is easiest to hardest: Big Top, 5.12a, Lower Meadow River. Great gear, but very little jamming; the crux was a layback for me. Still, great, and probably the easiest trad 12 at the New. Traverse in from the left, unless you want to add a 5.11 r/x start. mountainproject.com/v/big-top/107138688 Fingercrack in White Corner, 12a, S.Nut Easier and more straightforward moves than The Beckoning, but WAY pumpier! mountainproject.com/v/finger-crack-in-white-corner/106001180 Genocide, 12a, Beauty Mtn. Obvious fingercrack on the far left of the Disturbance cave. I have not yet done it, but have heard the crux is the pumpy face up to the crack, and the crack is mid-11 or so. Stolen Tiggers, 12b, The Other Place (Meadow) Bolted start, but this is still my favorite roof crack in the area (only because I can't do Greatest Show) mountainproject.com/v/stolen-tiggers/107435799 Portly Gentleman's Route, 12c, Fern Buttress Fairly easy crack and roof climbing to a stopper 3 move crux. Do this if you are feeling v-bouldering strong. mountainproject.com/v/portly-gentlemans-route/106719993 Black Crack, 12c, 1st Buttress, Meadow River Really nice Peter Croft route that doesn't get done that much, since it sits right in between a couple of popular 13a sport routes. Easier finger crack and face climbing, to a heady but safe riht traverse, into a killer steep hands and finger crack. Take way more yellow tcu/.4 camalot size than you need. Luv Nothing, 12c, S.Nut My personal favorite. Pure, steep thin hands and ringlocks jamming. A bit of wide choss that the bottom, and you may want to haul up a stick to clean out the spider webs at the bottom alcove. New Traditionalist, 12b, S.Nut Unless you have tiny fingers, this may feel like solid 12+ to you. Way quality, though. For Yosemite prep, I would get on Luv Nothing and Black Crack, as well as the classic 11s like Chasing the Wind, Agent Orange, Stuck in Another Dimension, and Leave it to Jesus. Enjoy! |  FLAG |