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New River Gorge Proper

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Ambassador Buttress 
Beauty Mountain 
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Keeney's Buttress 
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Sunshine Crag 

New River Gorge Proper 


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Lat, Long: 38.0779, -81.0634 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 757,153
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Oct 10, 2007
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63° | 36°
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66° | 42°
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72° | 45°
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74° | 53°
Climber taking a whip off the crux crimps of Minis...

Description 

This is the quintessential NRG area with varied climbing on all types of features. During the summer there are cooler crags such as Kaymoor, Sunshine, South Nuttal, and sometimes Beauty (depends on wall). The winter brings the cooler temps and crags like Endless that get full sun are prime. Welcome to the NRG.


Location 

All of the crags surrounding Fayetteville inside the New River Gorge.


615 Total Routes


['4 Stars',115],['3 Stars',276],['2 Stars',162],['1 Star',46],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',25],['5.7',30],['5.8',38],['5.9',62],['5.10',146],['5.11',153],['5.12',124],['5.13',31],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New River Gorge Proper:
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Mrs. Field's Follies   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
New Yosemite   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Super Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad   Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress
Flight of the Gumbie   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Four Sheets to the Wind   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Rico Sauve   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
The Entertainer   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Burning Calves   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress
Decameron, The   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
Legacy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Endless Wall : Snake Buttress
Scenic Adult   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Leave it to Jesus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, 100'   Endless Wall : Diamond Point
Lost Souls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Psycho Wrangler   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cotton Top
Jesus and Tequila    5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area
Quinsana Plus   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area
Proper Soul   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Endless Wall : The Cirque
Browse More Classics in New River Gorge Proper

Featured Route For New River Gorge Proper
Ladd pulling the last moves above the crux.

Handsome and Well-Hung 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Bridge Buttress
Beautiful route.This route climbs the amazing looking corner under the roof. Very tenuous moves stemming in the corner with small gear and finger locks/laybacks just out of reach. This route has a beginning, middle(crux) and end.Crux of this climb is moving off a thin layback pinching a high undercling and deadpointing up and left with no feet. Smearing high and bumping up an right to a pinch then leaving your now comfortable undercling to get a jug way up there. Throw in a hand-jam and remember...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of New River Gorge Proper Slideshow Add Photo
Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 2001.
Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 200...
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.
Comments on New River Gorge Proper Add Comment
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By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 13, 2011

So I just discovered roped soloing with a minitraxion... Anyone have any recommendations of routes with anchors right at the top of the cliffline that would be easy to fix by myself?
So far my list is Legacy, and the two routes (11a, 10a) just right of the honeymoon ladders.
Anyone wanna contribute to the list? Maybe the lines just left of jesus and tequila??

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 17, 2011

Ill add Sacrilege (12b), Raging Waters (11a), Fine motor control (12a), and Jesus and Tequila (12a). Though J&T wandered a bit and felt like it needed a few directionals for the overhang anyhow.

new world order and Bullet the new sky were no good. Anchors well below the top, and the top was sloping with loose rocks and pebbles....