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New River Gorge Proper

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Ambassador Buttress 
Beauty Mountain 
Bridge Area 
Bubba City 
Cotton Top 
Domino Point 
Endless Wall 
Fern Buttress 
Junkyard Area 
Kaymoor 
Keeney's Buttress 
South Nuttall 
Sunshine Crag 

New River Gorge Proper 


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Location: 38.0779, -81.0634 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 858,808
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Oct 10, 2007
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Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 200...

Description 

This is the quintessential NRG area with varied climbing on all types of features. During the summer there are cooler crags such as Kaymoor, Sunshine, South Nuttal, and sometimes Beauty (depends on wall). The winter brings the cooler temps and crags like Endless that get full sun are prime. Welcome to the NRG.


Location 

All of the crags surrounding Fayetteville inside the New River Gorge.


636 Total Routes


['4 Stars',118],['3 Stars',288],['2 Stars',167],['1 Star',47],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',25],['5.7',32],['5.8',41],['5.9',62],['5.10',150],['5.11',156],['5.12',131],['5.13',33],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New River Gorge Proper:
Mrs. Field's Follies   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
New Yosemite   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Flight of the Gumbie   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 90'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Super Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress
Four Sheets to the Wind   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
The Entertainer   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall
Rico Sauve   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 80'   Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
Decameron, The   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Bubba City : Sandstonia
Burning Calves   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress
Legacy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Endless Wall : Snake Buttress
Scenic Adult   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall
Leave it to Jesus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 100'   Endless Wall : Diamond Point
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Endless Wall : Fantasy Area
Psycho Wrangler   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Cotton Top
Lost Souls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Jesus and Tequila    5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area
Quinsana Plus   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Endless Wall : Honeymooner's Area
Proper Soul   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Endless Wall : The Cirque
Browse More Classics in New River Gorge Proper

Featured Route For New River Gorge Proper
chasin' the wind-late fall 2011

Chasin' the Wind 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Middle Beauty
This climb should probably be done in 2 pitches unless you do a direct start. P1: Climb the corner passing 1 bolt to reach the large ledge. Traverse right about 10-15 ft to reach the finger crack. This part of the climb is clean, but nothing to write home about, the second pitch is the business. P2: Climb the finger crack to a set of shuts. About 1/2 way up this crack, it gets harder, but only for about 10 ft. The majority of the climb is 5.10. The route climbs in a similar fashion to m...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of New River Gorge Proper Slideshow Add Photo
Climber taking a whip off the crux crimps of Ministry.
Climber taking a whip off the crux crimps of Minis...
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.
Endless Wall, NRG, WV.
Comments on New River Gorge Proper Add Comment
Show which comments
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 13, 2011

So I just discovered roped soloing with a minitraxion... Anyone have any recommendations of routes with anchors right at the top of the cliffline that would be easy to fix by myself?
So far my list is Legacy, and the two routes (11a, 10a) just right of the honeymoon ladders.
Anyone wanna contribute to the list? Maybe the lines just left of jesus and tequila??

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Aug 17, 2011

Ill add Sacrilege (12b), Raging Waters (11a), Fine motor control (12a), and Jesus and Tequila (12a). Though J&T wandered a bit and felt like it needed a few directionals for the overhang anyhow.

new world order and Bullet the new sky were no good. Anchors well below the top, and the top was sloping with loose rocks and pebbles....

By katiepl87
Apr 19, 2014

Is this area an okay place to bring dogs? Is it a hard place to access or just a simple trail?

By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 19, 2014

NRG "proper" refers to rock on both the north and south sides of the New River. This includes many crags and sub areas. It's huge. We're talking miles and miles of cliff line. Probably the most difficult place for access concerning dogs is Endless Wall. It can be accessed only by steel ladders bolted in place, or via rappel. Other areas like Fern, Beauty Mtn, Kaymoor, Bubba City, etc. can be accessed by foot trail. If you're going to be there for a few days, stop by Waterstone (the local gear shop) and pick up a copy of Mike Williams' guidebook. It is very well done, very comprehensive and will answer any question (including this one) you could have about the area and also questions that you didn't have. A great investment and totally worth the price.