Jeepers, this crux is hard. Ask Blake, he's the only other one to do it. It's really too bad that this route is so short, because the rock is stellar and the climbing is really bouldery.
Begin by climbing decent pockets up to a big edge (which getting to isn't trivial). Now the route is ready to kick your ass. Reach up and right to a small rounded gaston, fight to get your left foot up on the big edge and slap the nothing sloper-sidepull with your left hand. Try your best to stay on the rock and stab to a 3-finger pocket with your right hand.... done. Then climb about 10 more feet of 11a or so.
Pretty damn hard. Probably fully 13b.
This route is the farthest right at Greg's Gully.
4 bolts, closed cold shut anchors.
|Comments on New Revelation