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West Rock
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Alien T 
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Ground Up S 
Growth Spurt T 
How Ed Lost His Mind T 
Mad Bolter T 
New Rage T 

New Rage 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Giddings? June 1990
Page Views: 265
Submitted By: George Perkins on May 3, 2008

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Description 

New Rage is the thin slab climb 30 feet to the left of Eds Mind. It is typical thin TP slab climbing. With a difficult start followed by much easier climbing, this climb is either frustrating or unexciting, for most people.

The crux is getting established off the ground, prior to the first bolt. Once your feet are 4 feet high, you're through the crux. If you fall, the landing is flat and soft. No harder than 5.9 from here to the 2nd bolt. Soon after the 2nd bolt, the climbing eases considerably to 4th class. You can angle to the left and build and anchor and scramble down the gully, or go up and right to the anchor for Eds Mind, from which you can rappel with a single rope.

Regarding the rating:
The old guide says: 5.10d
Rock Climbing: NM says: 5.9+
Taos Rock says: 5.9+ but shows it in the wrong location (where Ground Up is).
I say: The crux moves are harder than any moves you find on most 5.9s. I think that if the crux was more than a few feet off the ground, this would be 5.10 or perhaps 5.10+. In my opinion, being 3 feet off the ground with a good landing changes the rating even if the moves are the same. Perhaps it's best to describe it as a 3 move sequence at V1 or V2 followed by 10' of 5.8 followed by 4th class.

Location 

This slab climb is 30' left of Eds Mind.

Protection 

2 bolts. May want trad gear to build an anchor, or run it out to the anchor for Eds Mind.


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