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New Nomics?? :)
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Email me.
 
By Dane
Feb 8, 2012
Cham '11

Must be why Petzl requested future emails go to the info box :)

All it takes to get it done is, enough of us drop them an email.


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By Jeff J
From Bozeman
Feb 9, 2012

Dane wrote:
Must be why Petzl requested future emails go to the info box :) All it takes to get it done is, enough of us drop them an email.


I got a reply back for the my email. I was told the reason the the new angle and extra large front tooth was for better dry tooling performance and thin ice conditions where it madd the shallow sticks better. for fat ice the front tooth would have to filed a bit to loose the sticky nature of the new picks


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By Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Feb 9, 2012
hardcore bouldering

I also sent Mr. Adams a nice email, and his response only confirmed a sneaking suspicion that he is an excellent copy and paster. Odds are, he's sent that same email out 6 or 7 times just this evening.


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By paintrain
Feb 9, 2012
Chuck Norris can Divide by Zero

Thomas Gappmayer wrote:
I also sent Mr. Adams a nice email, and his response only confirmed a sneaking suspicion that he is an excellent copy and paster. Odds are, he's sent that same email out 6 or 7 times just this evening.


That is why cut and paste was invented.

I have to say, this is an awful lot of complaining over a product change that requires 30 seconds of filing to correct back to what you want. I haven't used a pick out of package without taking a file to it in 20 years of ice climbing.

Dane(no offense), you seem to complain a lot about Petzl while praising Petzl at the same time. I am not saying that noting a problem they might have or a displeasure with a change is a bad thing, but you might make a little headway by calling them rather than trying to start an Arab spring style uprising every time they change something you don't like. More flies with honey is all I am saying.

PT


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By Dane
Feb 9, 2012
Cham '11

"Dane (no offense), you seem to complain a lot about Petzl while praising Petzl at the same time."

None taken. With 20K visits a week to the blog as you might imagine I get a lot of back channel emails. The two single hardware topics that generate the most email are Petzl's new picks and Petzl's new pommel design. When your first gen tool climbs better and is more reliable than your third I might suggest there is a problem.

This is just one thread on the Internet about the new picks, but there are several elsewhere and at least one on the newest pommels failing as well.

Admittedly or not today all the major climbing companies seem to use the end users as beta product testers. To do that successfully they need direct feedback.

I can do nothing on the blog but offer some little advice on how to modify the picks. But for pure ice I don't doubt the Cascade is a better design. So emailing me doesn't help. Emailing Petzl directly (their idea not mine) with your concerns just might.


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By Emmett Lyman
From Washington, DC
Feb 9, 2012
Personal photo

I had a pretty long conversation with the Petzl rep at Ice Fest in N. Conway last weekend about the new Nomic vs. old. When I pressed him about the poor performance of the new Ice pick he told me that they've changed the Ice pick's angle since it was released to fix the problems, and that it's now "the best pick ever" on ice. That doesn't really jive with what I've read on Dane's blog or elsewhere, but since I'm still rockin' a pair of worn Astro picks on my old Nomics I'm the wrong one to pass judgment.

Still, sounds a lot like a case of denial...


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By Dane
Feb 10, 2012
Cham '11

This is the content I got from Petzl yesterday.

"As for the picks they were redesigned to be a better all-around pick. The first tooth is now a bit steeper/ more aggressive making more of a hook greatly improving its performance on thin hook placements (rock or ice). That said when you get a good deep stick in ice it can be a little more difficult to clean. Despite what our goal was , Iíll take yours and the other comments Iíve received on the picks and pass them onto our design team."


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By Unassigned User
Feb 9, 2013

Hi,
I am back into the 'ice game' this year after retirement for many years. Of course tools have changed dramatically versus when I climbed - back then - we didn't climb leashless or have tools with bent shafts, etc. I see the term B and T rated picks. What does that mean may I ask?

I just bought a pair of Viper's - will be trying them out this weekend here in NY. Hoping I like them - tho I have to say - I kinda like the shape of the Petzl picks better from the pics that I am seeing on here. I am thnking that maybe the tip of the BD pick is too 'rounded' versus the Petzl pick being more of a 'squared-off' shape? Does this matter much?


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Feb 9, 2013

Michael Urban wrote:
Hi, I am back into the 'ice game' this year after retirement for many years. Of course tools have changed dramatically versus when I climbed - back then - we didn't climb leashless or have tools with bent shafts, etc. I see the term B and T rated picks. What does that mean may I ask? I just bought a pair of Viper's - will be trying them out this weekend here in NY. Hoping I like them - tho I have to say - I kinda like the shape of the Petzl picks better from the pics that I am seeing on here. I am thnking that maybe the tip of the BD pick is too 'rounded' versus the Petzl pick being more of a 'squared-off' shape? Does this matter much?

For what it's worth, when I got the new Nomics when they first came out, I hated the picks. I feel BD picks were climbing better, especially if you file the first notch at the bottom of the pick. To be honest, don't worry too much about the tools. Vipers are excellent tools for ice. I actually don't like Nomics on easy terrains.


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By Unassigned User
Feb 9, 2013

divnamite wrote:
For what it's worth, when I got the new Nomics when they first came out, I hated the picks. I feel BD picks were climbing better, especially if you file the first notch at the bottom of the pick. To be honest, don't worry too much about the tools. Vipers are excellent tools for ice. I actually don't like Nomics on easy terrains.


OK great - thanks for the info!


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By JohnnyG
Feb 13, 2013

Anybody else pop out the little plastic plug that covers the hole in the middle of the shaft?

I smacked mine climbing over a bulge or something. Now there is a little piece rattling around inside my tool.

How should I get it out? And what is that hole for anyway?


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Feb 13, 2013

JohnnyG wrote:
Anybody else pop out the little plastic plug that covers the hole in the middle of the shaft? I smacked mine climbing over a bulge or something. Now there is a little piece rattling around inside my tool. How should I get it out? And what is that hole for anyway?

You can tape it or wrap it like other thread shown. Getting it out might be an exercise in futility. The hole is for adding leash, at least in the older version I had.


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By Jon H
From Northern NJ
Feb 13, 2013
At the matching crux

Johnny G - that plug is in there forever. Get used to it.

Michael - Here is an article on the CE/UIAA ratings for technical ice axes: www.spadout.com/a/basic-technical-ice-axe-ratings/


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By APBT1976
Feb 17, 2013
Black Dike 12/25/11

That little thing that rattles around annoys the shit out of my partner. Not me so much, still though i think it is something they should fix and or warranty for those whom it bothers enough.

Like most pics they seem to stick much less once you get through that first half of tooth and or remove the steep angle of the first tooth when new.


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Feb 17, 2013
Cleo's Needle

APBT1976 wrote:
Like most pics they seem to stick much less once you get through that first half of tooth and or remove the steep angle of the first tooth when new.


Over driving your brand new Nomic picks sucks. Seriously.


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By Unassigned User
Feb 18, 2013

Jon H wrote:
Johnny G - that plug is in there forever. Get used to it. Michael - Here is an article on the CE/UIAA ratings for technical ice axes: www.spadout.com/a/basic-technical-ice-axe-ratings/


Thanks Jonnny G! I did find that after this thread in my Mixed Climbing book by W. Gadd! Thanks for the nice link tho!


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