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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Avalauncher 
Batshit Crack 
Beginner's 
Crap On 
Flare 
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) 
Hard Crack 
Have a Nice Day Yucca 
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) 
Phone Booth 
Rumsey's Lead 
Sharon's Lead 
Sharon's Sandbag 
Thumb Action 
Twin Cracks 
Unnamed 

New New Place 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 35.8116, -106.1985 Map
Page Views: 1,348. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 11, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: New New Place, left side. Photo by Wa3lt.
...


Description 

New New Place is yet another one of White Rock's basalt crags ideal for toproping or trad climbing. Climbs are numbered from left to right and coincide with Wa3lt's Left Side beta photo and Right Side beta photo .

Discovered by Steve Schum and Mike Roybal in the early 1970s (soon after the discovery of the Old New Place), the rock at the New New Place is good and nearly vertical, and some of the lines here are as long as any at White Rock (up to 60 or 70' tall). Most climbs are characterized by short sections of difficulty between good rest stances or ledges; however, the New New Place has a greater abundance of 5.8 and 5.9 lines compared to some others at White Rock. A few excellent more difficult lines are found here as well.

The New New Place faces east, making it shaded in late afternoon and evenings, and somewhat sheltered from the wind. Because the cliff is not as classic as some of the others in White Rock, you're likely to find yourself alone here. Although the 5 minute approach to the clifftop is straightforward, the rocky blocky scramble down to the cliff base makes the New New Place a bad location for dogs or small children. Unfortunately, distasteful graffiti and tire trash below the cliff blemish what is otherwise a beautiful location.

An list of routes with short descriptions (and a couple of errors) is found on this page of the LA Mountaineers website
A photo with routes delineated is found in "Jemez Rock", which corrected and published (with permission) the original handed down material from Guido, Jason Chen, and Walt Wehner (and others previously?) which also found its way to the LA Mountaineers website. A longtime LA climber was surprised to learn one of the climbs here was named after him, so I'm thinking these are not the original route names, not that it matters. This area is not described in detail in any other guidebooks, as far as I know.

The White Rock bolting agreement forbids bolts being placed in the middle of climbs here (if you can't protect it on lead- toprope it!), however, bolted anchors were installed to prevent damage to trees.


Getting There 

Enter White Rock, turning at the light with the gas stations. Drive straight, staying on Rover. Turn right on Kimberly. Drive to the end, park at the cul-de-sac. Hike east for 2 minutes, to reach the cliff top, facing the Rio Grande, then go south a ways to find the easiest downclimb. If you see the tire "art" below, you're in the right place. Scramble down to the base along blocks at either end of the cliff (the south end of the cliff being preferred).


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New New Place:
Beginner's   5.7 PG13     Trad, TR, 40 feet   
Have a Nice Day Yucca   5.8+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Twin Cracks   5.9     Trad, TR, 45 feet   
Phone Booth   5.10a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Batshit Crack   5.10b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Rumsey's Lead   5.10d     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Thumb Action   5.11a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Half Moons (aka Clockwork)   5.11 R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts)   5.12a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in New New Place

Featured Route For New New Place

Twin Cracks 5.9  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : New New Place
Jam and stem up parallel finger to hands cracks on less-than-vertical rock. As the cracks diverge commit to the right crack and pull up and over a block to a huge ledge. From the ledge, enjoy great laybacking up the giant flake with good feet on the face. 2-bolt anchor at the top, installed to prevent further damage to trees.A couple of variations from the top of the twin cracks have been reported but I haven't been on them. Both go at 5.10. Either go straight up from the top of the twin cracks...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of New New Place Slideshow Add Photo
New New Place, right side. Photo by <a href='/u/wa3lt//105890904'>Wa3lt</a>. <br />(7) <a href='/v/half-moons-aka-clockwork/106234293'>Half Moons</a> 5.11c/d <br />(8) Fever Pitch 5.12a <br />(9) <a href='/v/rumseys-lead/106234283'>Rumsey's Lead</a> 5.10d <br />(11) <a href='/v/batshit-crack/106228628'>Batshit Crack</a> 5.10b <br />(12) <a href='/v/open-book-aka-pure-thoughts/106236245'>Open Book</a> 5.12a <br />(13) <a href='/v/thumb-action/106228641'>Thumb Action</a> 5.11a <br />(14) <a href='/v/phone-booth/106228636'>Phone Booth</a> 5.10a <br />(15) Easy Start to Phone Booth 5.9 <br />(16) <a href='/v/have-a-nice-day-yucca/106228676'>Have a Nice Day Yucca</a> 5.8+ <br />(17) <a href='/v/twin-cracks/106228637'>Twin Cracks</a> (with left finish) 5.10 as shown

BETA PHOTO: New New Place, right side. Photo by Wa3lt....

Left side of the New New. "Avalauncher" is the 3rd from right, or 4th from left. <br /> <br />Someone with photoshop should number this. My notes say the number is (L to R) 1,2,3,4,5,6

BETA PHOTO: Left side of the New New. "Avalauncher" is the 3rd...

Right side of the New New. My notes say the numbers (along the bottom) should go: <br />7,8,9,10/11,12,13,14,15,16,17

BETA PHOTO: Right side of the New New. My notes say the number...