L to R R to L Alpha
BETA PHOTO: New New Place, left side. Photo by Wa3lt.
New New Place is yet another one of White Rock's basalt crags ideal for toproping or trad climbing. Climbs are numbered from left to right and coincide with Wa3lt's Left Side beta photo and Right Side beta photo .
Enter White Rock, turning at the light with the gas stations. Drive straight, staying on Rover. Turn right on Kimberly. Drive to the end, park at the cul-de-sac. Hike east for 2 minutes, to reach the cliff top, facing the Rio Grande, then go south a ways to find the easiest downclimb. If you see the tire "art" below, you're in the right place. Scramble down to the base along blocks at either end of the cliff (the south end of the cliff being preferred).
Browse More Classics in New New Place
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for New New Place:
Beginner's 5.7 PG13 Trad, TR, 40 feet
Have a Nice Day Yucca 5.8+ Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Twin Cracks 5.9 Trad, TR, 45 feet
Phone Booth 5.10a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Batshit Crack 5.10b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Rumsey's Lead 5.10d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Thumb Action 5.11a R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Half Moons (aka Clockwork) 5.11 R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Open Book (aka Pure Thoughts) 5.12a R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Featured Route For New New Place
Jam and stem up parallel finger to hands cracks on less-than-vertical rock. As the cracks diverge commit to the right crack and pull up and over a block to a huge ledge. From the ledge, enjoy great laybacking up the giant flake with good feet on the face. 2-bolt anchor at the top, installed to prevent further damage to trees.A couple of variations from the top of the twin cracks have been reported but I haven't been on them. Both go at 5.10. Either go straight up from the top of the twin cracks...[more] Browse More Classics in NM