New Music 5.11+ R
| 458 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Lowe/Malcolm Daly |
| Submitted By: | Malcolm Daly on Jan 1, 2001 |
| |
BETA PHOTO
Add Photo  Printer View
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description A hard line to the left of Fat City. None of the guide books have reported the complete route, so here it is. All the bolts were drilled on lead from stances.
P1. Start in the incipient groove 20' left of the start of Fat City and face climb the groove until you can step left and clip the first bolt. This section is hairy and can be protected if you're good with Tri-cams and RPs. Climb up the bolt line to the 2-bolt belay.
P2. Another incipient groove takes you up to the top of The "44" crack. Cross it to the roof, step down and left until you can haul over the roof on good holds. Face climb up (hard) to a left angling groove, or dike, and head left to belay in the first crack system you come to.
P3. Step right and face climb up a buttress to its top. It's easier than it looks; similar, and close to, High Plains Drifter. Head up toward the Wilie's Way dihedral and set up a bely when your rope gets tight.
P4. Climb Willie's Way (10+) and keep going and belay at the base of the steep headwall.
P5. Climb the headwall, climbing through the two square roofs on their right sides. Mantle onto the summit.
Protection Requires draws for the bolts and a trad rack trending to the thin stuff.
By paco
Apr 9, 2002
| the old anchors and one protection bolt have been replaced on pitch 1. if youre not up for leading this serious first pitch you can easily reach the anchors for a great TR via the anchors on p.1 of fat city. only one of the two bolts for lead have been replaced (the 2nd one). |
By Nate A
Apr 22, 2003
| Recently led the 1st pitch. Good natural pro up to a horizontal leaning seam with a fixed pin, very spicy from here to the first bolt but solid climbing with good edges. I believe someone has added a new last bolt, there are now a total of three to the anchors. |
By Nate A
Mar 18, 2005
| The lone bolt on the 2nd pitch replaced on 3-17-05. Looks like someone felt bad about the retrobolt added to the first pitch and removed it. |
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Oct 3, 2009
| Top roped the first pitch today. Excellent climbing on good stone. There is a good fixed pin and then two widely spaced bolts that take you to a good rap station to the left of Fat City's first belay. The two protection bolts are new and bomber. This would be a pretty hairy and runout lead. |
|
RSS Feed
36 more...
