Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Jeff Lowe/Malcolm Daly |
Page Views: | 1,713 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Malcolm Daly on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
A hard line to the left of Fat City. None of the guide books have reported the complete route, so here it is. All the bolts were drilled on lead from stances.
P1. Start in the incipient groove 20' left of the start of Fat City and face climb the groove until you can step left and clip the first bolt. This section is hairy and can be protected if you're good with Tri-cams and RPs. Climb up the bolt line to the 2-bolt belay.
P2. Another incipient groove takes you up to the top of The "44" crack. Cross it to the roof, step down and left until you can haul over the roof on good holds. Face climb up (hard) to a left angling groove, or dike, and head left to belay in the first crack system you come to.
P3. Step right and face climb up a buttress to its top. It's easier than it looks; similar, and close to, High Plains Drifter. Head up toward the Wilie's Way dihedral and set up a bely when your rope gets tight.
P4. Climb Willie's Way (10+) and keep going and belay at the base of the steep headwall.
P5. Climb the headwall, climbing through the two square roofs on their right sides. Mantle onto the summit.
P1. Start in the incipient groove 20' left of the start of Fat City and face climb the groove until you can step left and clip the first bolt. This section is hairy and can be protected if you're good with Tri-cams and RPs. Climb up the bolt line to the 2-bolt belay.
P2. Another incipient groove takes you up to the top of The "44" crack. Cross it to the roof, step down and left until you can haul over the roof on good holds. Face climb up (hard) to a left angling groove, or dike, and head left to belay in the first crack system you come to.
P3. Step right and face climb up a buttress to its top. It's easier than it looks; similar, and close to, High Plains Drifter. Head up toward the Wilie's Way dihedral and set up a bely when your rope gets tight.
P4. Climb Willie's Way (10+) and keep going and belay at the base of the steep headwall.
P5. Climb the headwall, climbing through the two square roofs on their right sides. Mantle onto the summit.
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